Spain in 1830, vol. 1Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 1
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
I dedicated my second morning in Toledo to the Alcazar, one of the most
striking objects in the city, from almost whatever quarter it is viewed.
This massive fabric was once the residence of the Moorish kings, and
more lately of the Castilian sovereigns. It was in the reign of Charles
V. that the present south and north fronts were erected, the former by
Herrera. The whole building is now in a state of decay,--these
magnificent fronts are falling into ruin; and the inside of the edifice
is no longer habitable; one wing only, which is still entire, is used as
a prison. When Toledo ceased to be the metropolis of Spain, the Alcazar
was converted into a workhouse, and more lately it was employed as a
silk manufactory. The archbishop undertook the establishment of this
from humane motives, but the undertaking proved a failure; and it is
probable that the Alcazar will now be delivered over to the hand of
time.
Among other parts of the Alcazar, I visited the vaults, which are of
immense extent, and open to the public, but are put to no use whatever:
in one of the vaults, a party of gipsies had made their quarters; they
had lighted a large fire, around which some lay sleeping; and one woman
was employed in cooking. The grotesque and ragged figures of the
gipsies, and the high vault illuminated by the red flare, reminded me of
the strong lights, and picturesque groups of the Spanish painters.
Standing in front of the Alcazar, with the terrace which overlooks the
city and the surrounding country--with ruins of Roman walls, and Moorish
castles at my feet--and with the palace of three races of kings behind;
it was impossible to avoid a retrospect of the past history of this
remarkable city. More than two centuries before the birth of Christ,
Toledo was added by Hannibal to the empire of the Carthagenians; and
after being subsequently a part of the Roman empire, it was wrested from
the dominion of Rome, by Eurico, king of the Goths, in the year 467. It
continued subject to the Gothic line nearly two hundred and fifty years;
when the Moors, after having subdued the greater part of Spain, and
reduced most of the principal cities, invested Toledo, and captured it
in 714. In the year 1085, after Toledo had remained under the
sovereignty of the Moors between three and four hundred years, Alonzo
VI., and Rodrigo Diaz--the Cid, expelled the Moors from its walls; and
from that period, until the expulsion of the Moors from Spain, Toledo
was alternately a stronghold of the Castilians, and of the Moors. And,
even after the settlement of Spain, it became the head of an
insurrection, which convulsed Castile during twenty-two years; whose
object was, to restrict the privileges of the nobles, and, in fact, to
re-model in many respects the constitution of Castile: but, in the year
1522, Toledo submitted to the crown; and since that period, its history
has been only remarkable as recording in successive steps of decay, the
gradual decline of the Spanish monarchy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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