Spain in 1830, vol. 1Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 1
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
There is less appearance of business in the streets of Madrid, than in
any city I have ever seen: the population seem to have turned out to
enjoy themselves. Two things contribute mainly to give that air of ease
and pleasure to the pursuits of the inhabitants of Madrid; the great
proportion of women of whom the street-population is composed,--and the
extreme slowness of movement. The women of Madrid have nothing to detain
them at home; the ladies have no home occupations as in London; nor have
the majority of the bourgeoises any shop duties to perform as in
Paris,--the street is, therefore, their only resource from _ennui_. And
there is something in extreme slowness of motion, that is entirely
opposed to business and duties,--a quick step, and a necessary one, are
closely allied; but the street population of Madrid, with few
exceptions, merely saunter; and wherever you reach an open space,
especially the _Puerta del Sol_,--a small square in the centre of the
city,--hundreds of gentlemen are seen standing, with no other occupation
than shaking the dust from their segars. The great numbers of military
too, strolling arm in arm, and, above all, the innumerable priests and
monks, with whom we at once connect idleness and ease, give to the
street population of Madrid an appearance of pleasure seeking, which is
peculiar to itself, and is perhaps little removed from truth.
On Sunday, Madrid presents the same aspect as on other days, with this
difference, that the shops and the streets are more crowded; and that
the lower classes, and the bourgeoises, are better attired. On Sunday
evening, the houses are deserted; the whole population of Madrid pours
down the _Calle de Alcala_, to the Prado. Every Sunday afternoon, from
four o’clock until six or seven, this street, nearly a mile in length,
and, at least, twice as broad as Portland Place, is crowded from end to
end, and from wall to wall, so that a carriage finds some difficulty in
making its way. Among this crowd, I have often looked in vain, to find
an ill-dressed person; but this exterior is no real index to the
condition of those who throng the Prado. I have reason to know, that
hundreds, who by their dress might pass for courtiers, have dined upon
bread and a bunch of grapes, and go from the _Paseo_ to hide themselves
in a garret; and females have been pointed out to me, whose mantilla,
comb, and fan could not have cost less than 10_l._, who were starving
upon a pension of 2,500 reals (25_l._).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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