Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
If I were anxious to impress any one with a favourable idea of Spanish
scenery, I would carry him from Murcia to Alicant, by Orihuela; for the
beauty and the novelty of the views upon this route, absolutely beggar
description. It is here particularly, where we learn to understand the
singular charm of palm-tree groves; and I was informed by a gentleman,
who before travelling this road had visited those spots in both Africa
and in Asia where the date is most abundant, that he had nowhere found
it in so great perfection as between Murcia and Alicant.
There is a diligence upon this road, which makes the transit in ten
hours; but I preferred hiring a tartana, and employing two days on the
journey. I accordingly left Murcia about sunrise, journeying along the
left bank of the river Segura; and while I sat in the tartana, with all
its curtains withdrawn, feeling the air so mild that I was even forced
to throw aside my cloak, though it was little more than day-break, I
transported myself in imagination to my native land, and its December
fogs, and frosts and snows. How different was a Spanish December! Here,
was no hazy atmosphere,--no raw, damp winds,--no rain, or sleet, or
snow, or cloudy sky. I never saw a June or July morning in England
finer than this. The sun rose into a cloudless heaven; not a speck was
visible from horizon to horizon: it was the calm of a summer morning,
and the softness of summer air; and when I turned to the bright green
livery in which the earth was arrayed, it seemed as if Spring had
borrowed for a day the graces of a riper season.
About a league from Murcia we passed under the rock and Moorish castle I
had seen from the tower of the cathedral, and gradually ascending among
the outer ridges of the mountains, and winding through some sweet
secluded valleys, the towers of Orihuela appeared over a little
promontory; and about eleven o’clock I reached the posada to breakfast.
Orihuela is famous upon many accounts. It is famous for the extreme
beauty of its situation, and the unrivalled fertility of its _huerta_:
it is famous for the undue number of its churches and convents: it is
famous for its superstition, and it is famous for its demoralization.
The three last are consequent upon each other. Even the vale of Murcia
yields in beauty and fertility to the Huerta of Orihuela; because the
latter is more abundantly supplied with water. I thought the greenness
of the vale of Murcia could not be exceeded; but I was mistaken. I found
the Huerta of Orihuela greener still: and the greater variety in the
trees with which it is thickly strewn, give to it another claim of
preference; for, mingled with the mulberry, the orange, and the fig, are
seen the cypress, the silver elm, and the pomegranate; and there too,
the palm, in place of lifting at wide intervals one solitary crown,
seems to have found its element; and, rising in clusters, lends novelty
as well as beauty to the enchanting scene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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