Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Bridges, River, Convents; prevalence of Religious Bigotry; Moorish
Remains; Beggars, and the cause of their abundance in Valencia; the
Archbishop; the University; Academy of Fine Arts; the Cathedral and
its Tower; the plain of Valencia and its productions; Rice Grounds
and their produce; produce of Silk, and Silk Trade; export of
Fruit; prices of Provisions; Pictures; Valencia Society; the Ladies
of Valencia; the port of Valencia; Paseos; Valencia Tiles; Journey
to Murviedro, (the ancient Saguntum); Convento de los Reyes;
Murviedro, its Fortress, and Ruins of Saguntum; an Arrest; a visit
from the Alcalde; Journey to Tarragona; pleasing Scenes; Catalunia;
Catalunian industry and its causes; Tarragona, its Antiquities and
Cathedral; Provincial Dialects; sorting of Nuts, and the Nut trade;
Journey to Barcellona, and arrival.
When I had dispatched my introductory letters, I sallied, as usual into
the street, and accident brought me to one of the bridges across the
Guadalaviar, called Puente del Mar. The river sometimes fills its
channel, a channel so wide, that some of the bridges have as many as
thirteen arches; but I saw only an inconsiderable rivulet not much
larger than the Manzanarez, as it flows through the bridge of Toledo at
Madrid. I believe, however, the apparent scantiness of the stream is
partly owing to its being diverted in numerous channels to water the
plain. The view from any of the bridges over the river is fine, for a
handsome line of irregular buildings follows the curve of the river, and
the bridges one beyond another, and the great Moorish gates, give an air
of grandeur to the scene. Almost all the conspicuous buildings seen from
this point are convents; these add much to the external beauty and
effect of the great Spanish cities; and few are more favoured in this
respect than Valencia, for it contains no fewer than twenty-seven
convents and monasteries for men, and twenty-two for women; and these,
with sixteen churches, and twenty-four chapels and hermitages, amount
altogether to eighty-six religious edifices. No wonder, therefore, that
the streets abound in friars and priests, and that the influence of the
religious bodies should be great in Valencia. Bigotry is not upon the
decline here among the mass of the population; and whether for the sake
of appearance, or from sincerity, religious observances are strictly
practised by the inhabitants of all classes. I have not seen in the
convents and churches of any town in Spain so great a number of persons
at devotion as in those of Valencia. I several times attempted to enter
the Dominican convent to see some pictures that I understood adorned the
walls of the church; but though the Dominican church be one of the
largest in Valencia, I always found the floor entirely covered with
kneelers, not scattered, but so crowded, that it was impossible to wade
among them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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