Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
My apartment in the hotel was opposite to the gate of the
cathedral, and there too a constant stream poured in and out. In
Valencia, as in Toledo, tokens of faith and devotion are affixed to the
doors of the houses; but in place of the “ave Maria purissima” of
Toledo, engravings are seen pasted upon the doors in Valencia,
representing different passages in the life of our Saviour; and I
noticed upon some of the houses paintings, or at least daubs, as large
as life, of Christ taken down from the Cross, the Crucifixion, &c.;
crosses, the same as we meet with upon the highways, are seen in many
parts of Valencia affixed to the walls of the houses. But these do not
all, though many do, point out the place marked by a deed of murder.
Several of them record examples of sudden death,--probably of some
well-fed canon, or other dignitary, who dropped down dead from repletion
or apoplexy.
Valencia is one of those cities in which traces of Moorish dominion are
the most visible,--not in any splendid Alhambra or Alcazar, but in
every-day sights and common objects. Independently of the great wall and
fine Moorish gates, one observes, in walking through the streets of
Valencia, many smaller signs of other days and ancient masters. Gateways
are occasionally seen sculptured in marble upon Moorish designs; stones
over the doors, or underneath the windows, shew, by their chiseled
marks, their ancient fashioner. Looking one day accidentally through the
open window of a house near the cathedral, I was surprised to see an
arabesque roof, gilded like the halls in the Alhambra of Granada and the
Alcazar of Seville; and if, from these inanimate objects, we turn to the
population, we shall also find among them equally strong traces of
former connexion with the Moors. All the Moorish tokens which I have
already mentioned, as distinguishing the population of Seville, Malaga,
and San Felipe, are found in even greater distinctness in Valencia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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