Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
The paseos of Valencia are scarcely proportionate to the greatness of
the city; but indeed, every road from Valencia is a paseo, because they
all lead through its beautiful plain, and are all skirted by trees,
close enough planted to afford a sufficient shade. The captain-general,
too, kindly throws open his garden, which is remarkable for its
profusion of flowers, its myrtle bowers, its acacias, and its
orange-trees, which I saw there for the first time as a wall-fruit. I
counted no fewer than sixteen in one cluster.
I have several times spoken of “Valencia tiles,” which, in all the
cities of the south of Spain, are used for floors; and are not only
highly ornamental, but most appropriate to the climate. In Valencia,
these tiles are, of course, more universally in use than elsewhere,
owing to their greater cheapness; but the best qualities are expensive,
even when bought at the manufactory. I saw there a very large
assortment, varying in price according to the design, from two to six
reals; and when it is considered that the squares are not more than nine
inches, it is obvious, that to cover an extensive suite of apartments
with these at 1_s._ a-piece, must be greatly more expensive than the
most sumptuous carpet. A good workman, employed in painting the tiles,
earns as much as a dollar per day.
I now prepared to leave Valencia. There is a diligence twice a week to
Barcellona; but, being desirous of visiting the site of the ancient
Saguntum (now Murviedro), I resolved to make only partial use of the
public conveyance. Accordingly, having hired a tartana, I left Valencia
after an early breakfast, and took the road to Murviedro. About half a
league from Valencia, stands the _Convento de los Reyes_, one of the
richest in Spain; and leaving my little vehicle at the gate, I applied
for leave to see the interior, which was immediately accorded by a very
civil, and even courteous monk, who accompanied me through the building.
In a former chapter, when speaking of the riches of the convents, I
referred to this, and mentioned the conversation that passed between the
friar and myself; I need not, therefore, repeat it here. The chief
distinction, however, of this convent, is the collection of manuscripts
which were bequeathed to it by the founder, who, along with his
magnificent endowment, enjoined that every day, and for ever, a mass
should be said for the repose of his soul. Among the manuscripts, I was
shown a fine copy of Livy, and many illuminated copies of the fathers;
but the chief treasure is the _Roman de la Rose_, of so early a date as
the ninth century. I was glad to see the friar show something like
enthusiasm in displaying these literary treasures.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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