Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Society in Valencia differs little from society in other Spanish cities
of the south. Many persons of high rank and great wealth, reside in
Valencia; but they live without any display, and many of them even
shabbily, sending to the wine shop for two bottles of wine, and to the
cook shop for a stew. Among the middle classes, the Tertulia is
universal; but its monotony is usually relieved by music and dancing. I
had good opportunities at Valencia, of judging of the manners of the
Valencian women; and I found among them, that agreeable vivacity--that
ready wit--that perfect freedom from affectation--and that obliging
disposition, which render them the most charming triflers in the world;
and the graces of music and dancing, in which they almost all excel,
greatly heighten the pleasure one finds in their society. But in
Valencia, more than in any other city, I was struck with the absence of
that mental cultivation, without which, vivacity, wit, and even good
temper, must fatigue, or become insipid. I need scarcely say how much I
was surprised, when one day showing a lady the beautiful sketch of the
Alhambra, from which the engraving in this work is taken, she said,
“what is the Alhambra?” It is a curious fact, that in Valencia society,
professional men are not to be found. Neither law nor medicine carry
with them any respectability in that city: I could obtain no explanation
of this; but perhaps there, as elsewhere, riches are the best passport
to society; and I was informed, that the fees paid to medical men are so
low, that not one physician in Valencia makes 100_l._ per annum.
On the Sunday before I left Valencia, I walked to the port, which is
situated about two miles distant from the city. Passing towards the
bridge, I met a religious procession issuing from one of the churches,
carrying with it the pope’s bull, published that day in every church of
the city, granting permission to eat animal food during the approaching
Lent: this resource of the papal exchequer, I should think fast
declining. A fine broad avenue leads in nearly a straight line, from
Valencia to its port, which is but an insignificant place, with a
harbour, suitable only for boats; and a roadstead very ill protected
against a south or south-west wind. The view from the end of the pier,
laid open the whole reach of that wide bay which lies between Cape St.
Antonio and the high lands in the neighbourhood of Propesa; but,
excepting the charm of a calm sea, there was little more to attract.
Between the port and the city, the country on both sides of the avenue
is laid out in vegetable gardens, for the consumption of the town. At
this season,--the month of December,--every kind of choice vegetable was
seen upon the table, particularly cauliflower, and green peas, which I
ate in the utmost perfection at Valencia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account