Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
It is scarcely possible to conceive a more beautiful drive than between
Barcellona and Gerona. The road keeps near to the sea all the way, and
an enchanting country lies on the left. You pass through a succession of
little plains, each from half a mile to three miles across, and each
containing a village. These plains lie in little recesses of the
mountains, which screen them behind, and separate them from each other,
leaving one side open to the sea. They are covered with the finest
vegetation, which advances within twenty yards of the sea, and are
generally skirted by a hedge of aloes, that runs all along the coast.
Between these plains the hills run forward into the sea, generally
terminating in perpendicular cliffs; and the road, after traversing the
green level, approaches close to the sea, and is carried along the front
of the precipice, till having passed the barrier, it then descends into
another of these little smiling recesses. These plains were covered with
beautiful and promising crops when I passed through them; and round the
villages, beds of every kind of vegetable,--cauliflower, cabbage,
carrot, onion, and pease, shewed excellent crops, all ready for the
kitchen. Every house, the centre of its own little farm, has a draw-well
in its neighbourhood, from which the land is supplied. Some of these
villages were singularly beautiful, particularly Cardetta, hanging upon
some heights above the sea, with its little fertile plain,--all that the
mountains would allow to it,--lying at its feet. These heights were
entirely covered with the prickly pear, the last I saw; and near that
village I also saw the last palm tree; but it was of stunted growth, not
the stately and branchy palm of Elche.
The difference between the villages and cottages of Catalunia, and of
the other provinces of Spain, is seen at a glance; and in the state of
the inhabitants, the difference is equally striking. The houses and
cottages have an air of greater neatness and comfort,--there is glass in
the windows, and the insides display the articles of furniture in common
use. No beggars, and fewer ragged people are seen,--industry is
evidently active,--stones are removed from the ground, and collected in
heaps,--fences are more general, and more neatly constructed,--nobody is
seen basking in the sun,--even the women and girls who are tending the
cattle, are not sitting idly wrapped up in plaids, but every one has her
spindle in her hand. In short there is altogether a new order of things.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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