Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
There is something peculiarly attractive in a walk through Seville. The
streets, though narrow, so scrupulously clean--the white-washed houses,
every one with its range of balconies; those peeps into the patios,--so
cool, so luxurious,--the golden oranges hanging over the garden walls,
for every third or fourth house has its garden and orangery; and the
glimpses of Moorish customs visible even in trifles. Among these, one of
the most obvious, is the contempt of chairs: in many of the lower order
of houses, and in the artizan’s workshop, it is usual to see the inmates
squatted upon mats; and even in the most respectable houses, and in the
best shops, most persons are seated upon low stools, not much elevated
above the ground.
The general aspect of the population of Seville, differs greatly from
that of Madrid. To begin with the upper ranks, there is something more
eastern in the appearance of the ladies; they are more frequently seen
veiled; their cheeks seem tinged with a hue of Moorish blood; and along
with the fire of the Castilian eye, there is mingled a shading of
oriental softness. Among the lower orders of women, we remark an
extravagant and tasteless profusion of gaudy ornaments, immense
earrings, and enormous bracelets, and numerous rings, which I have seen
gracing the fingers of a common beggar: all this is a remnant of Moorish
custom; and the dress of the Andalusian peasant, is even more grotesque
and ornamented than that of the women: his jacket and waistcoat, are
almost always trimmed with gold or silver, and a profusion of silk cord
and buttons covers every article of his dress.
One striking difference between Madrid and Seville, consists in the
number of ragged and wretched-looking people seen in the latter city.
This is the almost invariable result of a hot climate, where labour is a
disagreeable exertion, and where the temptations to labour are few. It
is easy to live in Andalusia:--give a small loaf of bread to one of
these ragged sons of idleness; he makes a hole in it, begs a little oil,
which is not worth refusing, pours it into the hole, and dipping his
slices of bread in it as he cuts round his loaf, he is set up for the
day; and if he succeeds in getting a two-quarto piece, about one
farthing, he can deliberate between the choice of a _gaspacho_, (the
luxury of thousands), which only requires a little vinegar, oil, and
onion,--or, of as many grapes as might furnish forth the desert of a
Russian prince: he is therefore idle, because he has no incitement to be
busy; and as for his rags and houselessness, these are scarcely felt to
be evils in a country where the sun shines every day in the year.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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