Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
JOURNEY FROM MALAGA TO GRANADA.--GRANADA.
Different Routes to Granada; Ascent of the Malaga Mountains; an
Anecdote illustrative of Spanish Morals; Picture of a Venta and its
Inmates; Night Arrangements; beautiful situation of Loxa; the Venta
de Casin; first View of Granada; Reflections; the Situation of
Granada and its Vega; the Alhambra; St. Michael’s Mount, and its
Singularities; excavated Dwellings; View from the Mount;
extraordinary Changes in Temperature; a Fire in Granada, and the
curious means resorted to for extinguishing it; Superstition; the
Cathedral; the Convents; the Archbishop; Husbandry in the Vega of
Granada; State of Agriculture; the Duke of Wellington’s Estates;
Effects of the Loss of the Colonies; the Paseos of Granada; the
Population; the Market; Usages; the Italian Opera.
From Malaga to Granada, there are two roads; one by Velez Malaga, the
other by Loxa. The former of these roads lies a great part of the way
along the sea shore, and then turning to the left, leads through Alhama
to Granada. By sleeping at Velez Malaga the first night, and at Alhama
the second, tolerable accommodation may be had all the way to Granada.
The other road, on leaving Malaga, strikes at once into the heart of the
mountains, and leads to Granada by way of Loxa. By this road, it is
necessary to sleep at ventas of the very worst description,--for Loxa
does not make a convenient halting place,--and although neither of these
roads are safe from robbery, the latter is by far the most celebrated
for the crimes that have been committed upon it. I resolved to travel by
the Loxa road; chiefly, because the scenery upon it was reported to be
greatly more attractive than upon the road by Velez Malaga; and learning
that a gallera was about to leave Malaga for Granada by the road which I
had selected, I engaged a place in it, for which I paid two dollars and
a half,--a very moderate charge for so long a journey.
I took my seat in the gallera at seven in the morning, and found my
fellow travellers to consist of a middle-aged woman, the wife, as I
afterwards learned, of a respectable shopkeeper in Malaga: her
daughter, a sprightly, intelligent, and remarkably pretty girl of
nineteen, two years married to a wine grower of the neighbourhood: a
young woman of two or three and twenty, comely, and finely formed, on
her way to Granada on speculation,--for she was one of those unhappy
persons, whose temporary home depends upon the caprice of her temporary
master; and another woman, who travelled openly as the mistress of the
muleteer. Such was the company in the gallera.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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