Spain in 1830, vol. 2Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 2
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
Leaving Malaga, the road passes along the channel of a stream, and then
enters the rich and highly cultivated country that lies between Malaga
and the mountains, which we began to ascend, after travelling about
three quarters of a league. This is the most extraordinary ascent I ever
recollect to have seen: it is computed to be three leagues and a half,
upwards of fourteen miles English, from the point at which the road
enters the mountains, until it reaches the summit of the range; and in
all this distance there is not one yard of level ground, still less of
descent. I know of no mountain road in Switzerland more abounding in
magnificent scenery, or in varied and charming prospects, than this. The
formation of these mountains is singular: innumerable conical hills
cover the face of the range; and the road winding upward among these, is
one moment shut in among the mountains, and shut out from the
world,--the next, emerging from behind one of these little hills, it
traverses the front of the range, disclosing an illimitable prospect of
land and sea. This peculiarity in the formation of the mountain,
produces an infinite variety of views. Sometimes, when looking back
towards Malaga, nothing intercepts the view--the whole bay,--Malaga in
its centre,--the Moorish ruins,--the cathedral, and the cultivated
plain, are all spread below. At another point, only the city and the bay
are seen, the mountains shutting out all the rest; while still higher
up, even the city is hidden, and the sea appears to wash the base of the
mountains. The views too in the interior of the mountain are beautiful:
a deep valley is from time to time revealed,--the mountain slopes that
encompass it, covered with vines, and in its centre the house of the
vine-grower, surrounded by a belt of charming verdure, and half
embowered in a grove of orange trees.
As we ascended the mountains, we met a few travellers, and a
considerable number of muleteers and their trains, every one well armed
with guns, and some with swords also. Many crosses stood by the
way-side; and as I walked the most part of the way up the mountain, I
generally stopped to read the record; some of these were of sudden
death, and some of murder,--but of the latter I saw only one of very
recent date.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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