Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Social life and customs
Then the main branch came to Constantinople where it has ever since
served the empire in all branches of the government services. Now the
last descendants of the main branch are here, in Erenkeuy, and we are
entering through the gate of their house.”
A wrought-iron garden gate opened on a road bordered with trees. Right
near the gate and on each side of the road were two little houses of
seven or eight rooms each. These used to be the “Selamlik,” or quarters
where my uncle received his men friends in the old days, entertained
them or talked state matters with them. When business required it, or
when the friends desired, they would stay a few days as his guests.
The little houses were specially designed for this purpose, each of
them having even its own kitchen. The service was made by a retinue
of men servants alone and in the old days only men were to be seen in
and around these two little houses, as around all “Selamliks.” They
were a sort of private club at the time that Turkish ladies were not
allowed to associate with the social or business activities of their
men. But now that the barkers curtailing the activities of women have
been torn down the two little houses were rented to two families. Some
of the tenants were sitting on the verandas and looked at us with the
curiosity that all people living in a quiet country place feel towards
strangers.
We followed the road winding its way through old trees and shrubs
and soon reached an inner wall covered with vines, separating the
gardens of the “Harem” from those of the “Selamlik.” The road skirted
this inner wall and took us to the back of the main house, or “harem”
proper which in the old days was consecrated to the living quarters
of the ladies and the private quarters of the family. It is a big
building with its main entrance opening on the outer court, but with
its façade turned toward the gardens of the harem, so that there is no
communication with the old Selamlik other than this entrance. The door
was ajar and opened as soon as we set foot on its steps.
My aunt, with her two sisters, their children and the servants had
formed a semi-circle inside the entrance hall and were awaiting
us, outwardly calm but with their eyes shining with restrained
excitement. Turkish etiquette requires composure no matter how excited
one is. Every one has to wait his turn and we greeted each other
accordingly, starting by the eldest and going down the line according
to age--kissing the hands of those older than us and having our hands
kissed by those younger than us. This hand-kissing is a sign of respect
which remains supreme in Turkey; no matter what their respective social
position, when two Turks greet each other the younger one always at
least makes a motion as if to kiss the hand of his elder. It is a
quaint, graceful acknowledgment of the respect and allegiance due to
old age.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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