Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Social life and customs
But for every day thereafter Madame Ismet Bey and her son had arranged
some special entertainment for us. Quietly, unostentatiously and with
the characteristic lack of show with which well-bred Turks entertain
their guests, they succeeded in giving us, without our being aware
that it had all been pre-arranged, a different distraction every
afternoon. Friends and neighbours would drop in for tea one evening
and a little dance or a little bridge game would be organized as on
the spur of the moment. Another afternoon they would take us in their
rowboat for an outing on the Bosphorus and we would stop either to
call on some friends or to walk around or take some refreshments in
the casino of the park at Beikos, which at this season is quiet and
pleasant. Once we had a small picnic at the Sweet Waters of Asia. We
went in the rowboat up this little stream--a miniature Bosphorus,
with old tumbled-down houses by the water, big trees leaning their
branches covered with autumnal golden leaves over old walls covered
with vines, here and there a ramshackle wooden bridge spanning the
stream and giving it the appearance of a Turkish Venice, and then large
meadows on both sides, where groups of people were, like us, taking
advantage of the last few days of summery sunshine of the year. Old
Turkish women in black dusters, their hair covered with a white veil
arranged Sphinx fashion, were sitting cross-legged near the water
in silent and impassible contemplation, while younger women--their
daughters or granddaughters--were sitting a few steps away on chairs,
drinking coffee, smoking cigarettes and chattering away their time.
Small boys in vividly coloured shirts, knickers hanging loose below
their knees, wearing shapeless fezzes with a small blue bead--against
the evil eye--would be running around and prancing with little girls
clad in Kate Greenaway skirts coloured with the brightest shades of
the rainbow, their loosened hair flapping over their narrow shoulders.
Simple folk all, neither peasants or city folk--just the families
of small village traders--the kind of people whose pictures foreign
newspapermen find a malign pleasure in publishing as representative
Turks. They might as well publish pictures of tenement house dwellers
of New York and London as being representative Americans or Britishers.
Many gypsies were there, going from group to group to tell fortunes,
to sing or to dance, gypsy women of all ages and of suspicious
cleanliness, who can always be detected in Constantinople by the fact
that they are the only ones to wear coloured bloomers, while some old
Greek and Armenian women wear black bloomers. By the way, another
conception of foreigners which my wife shared but which she lost after
a short stay in Constantinople was this very one of bloomers: in all
our stay in Turkey she did not see a single Turkish woman wearing them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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