Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Social life and customs
At last, through this repulsive maze of vice, we arrive at the
Russian restaurant where we are to meet Carayanni. Pera is now full
of Russian restaurants, where a money-spending international crowd
revels in so-called Bohemian life. Why not? The walls are artistically
painted and the furniture queer looking enough. Of course, like most
amateur Bohemians, the only thing which this international crowd has
adopted from the Quartier Latin of Paris is free love. Anyhow, with
the punctuality of a perfect host, Carayanni is waiting for us. Well
groomed and prosperous-looking in his dapper London-made clothes, he
is trying his best to look and act like an Englishman. His polite
nonchalance and his general appearance are so perfect that, despite his
dark complexion, it is hard for me to realize that this is the same man
who, before I left Constantinople about ten years ago, was making only
a very modest living in gambling and card games in which he always was
an expert. He has changed his business, however, during the war and is
now one of the most successful food speculators in town.
Carayanni has a special table prepared right near the center of the
room and on our way to the table he stops to greet the waitresses and
to gracefully kiss their hands. Most of these girls are supposed to
belong to the Russian nobility, so in Pera it has become the custom
to kiss the hand that feeds you. We take our seats and glance about
the room. As a whole the place is almost respectable. The crowd is
the usual mixture seen now at night in Pera: mostly olive-skinned,
thick-lipped, dissipated Armenians and Greeks who can afford
high-priced restaurants, thanks to their unscrupulous war and post-war
profiteering; many foreigners who can the better afford to spend in
view of the low rate of exchange of the Turkish money; a few Americans
who love to indulge in foreign countries in pleasures forbidden to
them in their own either by puritanic traditions or by the eighteenth
amendment. The food is excellent; we have a taste of “vodka,” the
Russian drink, while at other tables imported and local wines of
rare vintage are consumed copiously. The professional entertainment
provided consists of an excellent gypsy orchestra, the best I have
heard anywhere, a few singers who sing some weird Russian songs and
an interpretative dancer who interprets better than she dances. In
between the professional numbers those who desire to dance can do
so in the middle of the room which remains cleared for the purpose.
After all, it is the same kind of cabaret restaurant that one finds in
London, Paris or New York, except that its performers are Russian, its
waitresses are supposed to be princesses and its crowd is a little more
“Bohemian.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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