Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Social life and customs
With such conditions prevailing, aggravated by their own financial
difficulties, it is not surprising that the Turkish elements have
neither the heart nor the desire to assume again their position as
leaders of the summer colony in Prinkipo. They prefer to keep quietly
to themselves and they make it a point to avoid as much as possible
any contact with foreigners or with the mixed crowd of Levantines.
The beautiful Yacht Club, which was formerly an essentially Turkish
institution really devoted to yachting, is now more of a gambling
den than a club and only a few unprincipled Levantinized Turks still
frequent it. We passed before it on our way home, and father said
smilingly that it was now “taboo” for us. I can well imagine how he
felt. He had been one of the founders of the club.
My father and my uncle lived together in a big white villa midway on
the hill. The house had been originally built by my father as a small
cottage during the first years of his marriage and when my uncle was
away on one of his diplomatic missions. Then gradually as the family
increased and as my uncle came back, additions had been made to the
cottage. It stood now, a large twenty-five room house in the midst of
pine trees, with shaded verandas running around each floor, commanding
a gorgeous view over the three neighbouring islands, on the one hand,
and the smiling shores of Anatolia on the other. The background to this
panorama is furnished by the city of Constantinople, dimly discernable
at a distance, refleeting at night its millions of blinking lights in
the blue waters of the Marmora. We settled into one of the wings of the
house originally built for my elder brother when he married. He was now
away with his family.
To celebrate our arrival my father took us at the first opportunity
to the Prinkipo Club of which he was still president. This club has
remained more exclusive than the Yacht Club and has therefore a larger
and better Turkish attendance. It occupies the beautiful estate
which was the American summer Embassy at the time of Mr. Leishman.
Weekly concerts are given in its gardens every Friday night--the
Turkish Sunday. My father took us to one of these concerts to make
our “debut” into the Turkish society of Prinkipo. Groups of Turkish
families were wandering together in the gardens or sitting at tables,
enjoying the beautiful starry night and listening to the music. The
ladies were attired in summer garments--beautiful Oriental capes of
embroidered white silk, draping their Parisian gowns in flowing loose
folds--their hair covered by a net or veil, but their faces uncovered.
The men wore tuxedos or business suits and could be distinguished
from the foreigners only by their red fezes, a most unbecoming and
unpractical headgear which is, alas! obligatory for all Turkish men in
Constantinople.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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