But I had work before me. The relations between England and Spain were
strained, and diplomatic negotiations regarding some incidents in
Morocco and in Cuba had been rendered more difficult on account of the
unexpected overthrow of the Ministry. The British Government was more
interested in the affairs of Spain than it had been for many years, so
the British public were eager for the latest intelligence; therefore,
when I retired to my room, I was compelled to sit far into the night,
writing by the light of a guttering candle all I knew, and recording
every rumour anent the complex questions.
Those who have wandered over the yellow sands of San Sebastian well know
how picturesque is the view across the Bay of Zurriola. It was upon
this scene I gazed on opening my windows on the following morning.
Beyond the broad Plaza, lined on three sides by handsome houses, the
sunlit waters of the Bay of Biscay rolled in upon the shore, wave after
wave of transparent emerald breaking in long lines of snowy foam. White
villas gleamed from among the foliage on the hillsides, and high brown
cliffs rose from right and left, against which the rollers, roaring and
surging, dashed and went up in columns of spray.
Swallowing my coffee, I went out--not, however, before I had made a
gratifying discovery; namely, that the room next mine, communicating by
a locked door, was the private sitting-room of Senor Canovas del
Castillo, the statesman upon whose political actions the eyes of Europe
were at that moment centred. Success in journalism depends a good deal
upon luck, and to accidental incidents I attribute any good fortune I
have enjoyed in obtaining exclusive and reliable information in various
holes and corners of the Continent where I have had to compete with the
resident correspondents of Reuter's, the Havas, and the Central News
agencies. I had walked across the Plaza de la Constitucion, wondering
how I could best turn this fortuitous circumstance to account, when
suddenly I found myself before the grey facade of Santa Maria, and
almost involuntarily I entered. The air was heavy with incense, and the
church was in semi-darkness--a chiaroscuro that was exceedingly striking
and effective. There was, however, little of interest beyond the
heavily-gilded and somewhat tawdry altars, which are the feature in most
Spanish churches, and I was just about to leave when the silence was
broken by loud sobbing close to me. I had believed myself alone in the
place, but on gazing round in surprise, I saw within a few yards of me,
half hidden by one of the great stone columns, a female figure kneeling
before one of the altars, with her face buried in her hands, sobbing as
though her heart would break. I was turning away, leaving the lonely
worshipper to her grief, when the dress, the softness of outline, and
the flawless complexion seemed strangely familiar. Next instant I
recognised her as the girl I had passed in the crowd, and whose beauty
had so impressed me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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