At length we passed through the Urals and alighted at Ekaterinbourg,
where the railway at that time ended. A fortnight after leaving London,
I purchased a sleigh, hired three Government horses, and Prascovie and
I, in the great fur coats, skin gloves, and sheepskin boots we had
bought, took our seats; the baggage and provisions having been packed in
the bottom of the conveyance, and covered with a layer of straw. Then
our driver shouted to the little knot of persons who had assembled
before the post-station, whipped up the three shaggy horses, and away we
started on the first stage of our long, dreary drive across Siberia.
Over the snow the horses galloped noiselessly, and the bells on the
wooden arch over their heads tinkled merrily as we moved swiftly along
through the sharp, frosty air.
Soon we were out upon the Great Post Road, and as far as the eye could
see, there was no other object visible on the broad, snow-covered plain
but the long straight line of black telegraph poles and striped
verst-posts that marked our route.
Day after day we continued our journey, often passing through miles of
gloomy pine forests, and then out again upon the great barren steppes.
Frequently we met convoys of convicts, pitiful, despairing bands of men
and women, dragging their clanking chains with them wearily, and
trudging onward towards a life to which death would be preferable. No
mercy was shown them by their mounted escorts, for if a prisoner
stumbled and fell from sheer exhaustion, he was beaten back to his
senses with the terrible knout which each Cossack carried.
On dark nights we halted at post-houses, but when the moon shone, we
continued our drive, snatching sleep as best we could. We lived upon
our tinned meats and biscuits, the post-houses--which are usually about
twenty to thirty miles apart--supplying tea and other necessaries.
Although the journey was terribly monotonous and uncomfortable, with a
biting wind, and the intense white of the snow affecting one's eyes
painfully, my fair fellow-traveller uttered no word of complaint. All
day she would sit beside me chatting in English, laughing, smoking
cigarettes, and now and then carrying on a conversation in Russian with
our black-bearded, fierce-looking driver, afterwards interpreting his
observations. Indeed, it appeared that the further we travelled from
civilisation, the more light-hearted she became.
Arriving at last at Tomsk, we remained there three weeks, during which
time I visited the _kameras_ of the "forwarding prison," the horrors of
which I afterwards fully described. An open letter I had from the
Minister of the Interior admitted me everywhere, but I was compelled to
secrete the notes I made in the money-belt I wore under my clothes,
otherwise they would have been discovered and confiscated by the prying
_ispravniks_, or police officers, during the repeated examination of our
baggage at almost every small town we passed through.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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