straws, and its pattern is a loop or loops of a slightly curved nature formed on the edge of the plait by allowing the right hand “end” or “ends” to miss one or more turns of plaitting, so that when at regular intervals it is, or they are, loosely brought into use, they will form a kind of scalloped edge to the plait. There are also heads which are known by the number of times plaitting is _missed_ to create a fancy edge. These vary from two to ten, and are made from a sufficient number of “ends” to leave the head of “Under-two” or “Under-ten” or intermediate numbers, as the case may be, with a sufficient “foot” to keep the plait firm for working; the resultant appearance of this method is a plain succession of parallel straws at the plaitting angle to the “foot,” which gives, when sewn, the “foot” being covered, according to the medium used, an entirely “matt” or a brilliantly glossy surface. These “under” plaits can be made with any reasonable number of “ends,” but they are seldom found plaitted with more than sufficient to produce the “under ten.” In order to preserve absolute regularity of length in these head straws, which are actually “in the air,” they are turned over a suitable template, be it of bone, metal, or any thin hard wearing material; this is withdrawn as the plaitting progresses to the further stages of development, but in some cases, especially with split straws, which would not retain any regularity without some support, the template used is a strand of split straw of sufficient width for the number of “under heads,” and is left in the plait to form a permanent strengthener to the pattern. It is completely hidden from sight by the heads folded over it, and although in the wider plaits it is very undesirable, being extremely difficult to turn in small circles, in the narrow grades the objectionable features are more easily overcome. In addition to these, there is the “saw” edge, a peculiarity of “Rustics,” and of which, as its name implies, one edge, or both edges, present that angular serration which is common to saws. There are also innumerable fancy edges, having as their foundation one or the other of these generic patterns. The “Foot,” or other part of the braid as distinct from the head, is made in so many ways that room forbids any detailed account: some plaits have none, and one of the most remarkable of this variety may be described. In “English Brilliant,” a widish plait made of a varying number of ends, there is really no “foot,” the plait, of split straws, being all head or pattern. The individuality of “Brilliant” is that once the turn is effected the split straw instead of laying flat across the pattern is made to stand on its edge, giving to the design a look similar to a honeycomb; this is probably the lightest in weight of any straw made plait.