Straw Hats: Their history and manufactureInwards, Harry
History
Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture
Inwards, Harry
Hats; Straw industries
The blocking of hats by machinery is a process much more recent in
operation than hand work, and although its origin is more or less
inside the possibility of a living man’s memory, so confused are the
_data_ connected with it that little or no reliability can be placed
on the greater number of the traditions. One thing alone stands out
clearly as a definite indication of first use, and that is the certain
seniority of the pressing of Leghorn hats. It is almost self-evident
that neither machinery or blocks to stand machine pressures would
be made for the manufacture of unlikely or transient materials and
shapes, and while the fashion of “Granny” bonnets, etc., was constant
for nearly half a century, the details of their shapes offered too
many difficulties to the would-be maker of a machine to press them,
to induce any great inventive effort on his part. It needed something
simple in outline, and something that could be done in large and
recurring quantities, to give to the inventor the necessary impetus
to produce a machine to impart to the hats their final finish. And
100 years ago there was nothing in the straw market, used either
for hats or bonnets, that fulfilled the above conditions except the
Leghorn hat. The making of this has been described in a former chapter.
The early methods, either by wood mallet or slickenstone did not
adequately fill the requirements; hand ironing was nearly as tedious
and was rather dangerous, as the Tuscan straw of the Leghorns was so
easily scorched, and as the demand increased the desire for a more
expeditious, safe and uniform method of pressing grew with it. The
earliest information, _given with some reserve_, is that an iron pan
or dish was made, moulded to the shape of the hat, and that this was
fixed over a metal cauldron in which water was kept at the boil, or
was warmed direct by charcoal fires. These heated the pan sufficiently
for the purpose; in fact, to-day, with all the improvements, and they
are legion, steam heating in this manner to blocking machines is still
general. The hat was damped and laid properly in the pan to its shape,
and was pressed on the inside by a convenient tool of hard wood or
stone, either of which was sufficient to squeeze the wet-softened
straw into the crevices attendant on the edge of the crown and the
corner made by the junction of the crown and the brim, and to impart
the necessary shape to all sections of the hat. The next move towards
the present models, was to have the pan as above, with a wooden, or
sometimes iron, block which would, when the hat was laid in position,
fit into it in such a manner as to convey an equal impingement on all
parts. This was adjusted by means of an over working screw, by which
some large pressures could be given. But these simple methods had great
disadvantages; it was impossible to entirely synchronize the pressure
on every hat, and it was extremely lengthy and tedious. A Mr. Samuel
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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