Straw Hats: Their history and manufactureInwards, Harry
History
Straw Hats: Their history and manufacture
Inwards, Harry
Hats; Straw industries
Howard, of Luton, invented a press on similar lines, but the action was
horizontal instead of vertical, this served a very good purpose for a
period until MM. Desbordes,[2] of Paris, introduced their hydraulic
press. This consisted of a steam heated chamber in which was placed the
metal “pan” or “dish,” it being the “female” mould of the required
shape. The pressure was obtained by an overhead chamber to which an
india-rubber bag was fastened. This chamber was very strong and heavy,
and was, as it were, one end of a balance, working on trunnions, at the
other end of which were two large metal balls as counterpoise.
To bring into operation, the chamber was pulled down so that the centre
of the india-rubber bag, which was made with a teat, came into the
crown opening of the pan; the chamber was securely fastened by means of
screw lugs to the portion holding the pan, and a hydraulic press was
put into action which filled the rubber bag with a sufficient pressure
of water to distribute the power all over the hat in the pan; a gauge
showed the pressure obtained and consequently an equal amount could
be given to every hat. The results, therefore, were all alike, and
as the press could be locked and unlocked in a fraction of the time
required by the screw process, the work was greatly accelerated. Many
improvements have been made in blocking machines since then (about
1860), but all the later models embody the important feature of the
hydraulic pressure through the rubber bag. The next important step
in the evolution of mechanical blocking was that introduced by Mr.
Henry Keston, of Luton, adapted from a model made by a Mr. Beresford,
of Stockport, Cheshire. This improvement consisted of erecting round
steel uprights on the bed of the steam heated chamber, allowing the bag
chamber, attached to which were slides fitting the uprights, to rise
and fall vertically. The counterpoise was effected by a chain, attached
to the top of the bag chamber, passing over a wheel supported by a
bracket at the back of the machine and loaded with sufficient weights
to adjust the balance. A hand or foot lever pressure was sufficient
to raise or depress the bag chamber, and water connection to it was
obtained by means of a corded re-inforced india-rubber swan neck. When
the chamber had descended to its proper position it was locked by means
of a stout steel three-armed part like the hub of a wheel, with three
spokes radiating from it at equal distances. The hub was pivoted on the
centre of the top of the bag chamber, and a short lateral movement of
this part brought all three spokes under very strong hook-like lugs,
and locked the bag chamber securely to the pan chamber.
[Illustration: Fig. 18 MACHINE BLOCKING
By Press of Beresford-Keston Type]
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