Studies in the South and West, with Comments on CanadaWarner, Charles Dudley
History
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada
Warner, Charles Dudley
Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The general impression of Milwaukee is that it is a city of much
wealth and a great deal of comfort, with a settled, almost conservative
feeling, like an Eastern city, and charming, cultivated social life,
with the grace and beauty that are common in American society anywhere.
I think the men generally would be called well-looking, robust, of the
quiet, assured manner of an old community. The women seen on the street
and In the shops are of good physique and good color and average good
looks, without anything startling in the way of beauty or elegance. I
speak of the general aspect of the town, and I mention the well-to-do
physical condition because it contradicts the English prophecy of a
physical decadence in the West, owing to the stimulating climate and
the restless pursuit of wealth. On the train to Madison (the line runs
through a beautiful country) one might have fancied that he was on a
local New England train: the same plain, good sort of people, and in
abundance the well-looking, domestic sort of young women.
Madison is a great contrast to Milwaukee. Although it is the political
and educational centre, has the Capitol and the State University, and a
population of about 15,000, it is like a large village, with the village
habits and friendliness. On elevated, hilly ground, between two charming
lakes, it has an almost unrivalled situation, and is likely to
possess, in the progress of years and the accumulation of wealth, the
picturesqueness and beauty that travellers ascribe to Stockholm. With
the hills of the town, the gracefully curving shores of the lakes and
their pointed bays, the gentle elevations beyond the lakes, and the
capacity of these two bodies of water as pleasure resorts, with elegant
music pavilions and fleets of boats for the sail and the oar—why do we
not take a hint from the painted Venetian sail?—there is no limit to
what may be expected in the way of refined beauty of Madison in the
summer, if it remains a city of education and of laws, and does not get
up a “boom,” and set up factories, and blacken all the landscape with
coal smoke!
The centre of the town is a big square, pleasantly tree-planted, so
large that the facing rows of shops and houses have a remote and dwarfed
appearance, and in the middle of it is the great pillared State-house,
American style. The town itself is one of unpretentious, comfortable
houses, some of them with elegant interiors, having plenty of books
and the spoils of foreign travel. In one of them, the old-fashioned but
entirely charming mansion of Governor Fairchild, I cannot refrain
from saying, is a collection which, so far as I know, is unique in the
world—a collection to which the helmet of Don Quixote gives a certain
flavor; it is of barbers’ basins, of all ages and countries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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