Studies in the South and West, with Comments on CanadaWarner, Charles Dudley
History
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada
Warner, Charles Dudley
Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
It is not necessary to dwell much upon the external features of New
Orleans, for innumerable descriptions and pictures have familiarized
the public with them. Besides, descriptions can give the stranger little
idea of the peculiar city. Although all on one level, it is a town of
contrasts. In no other city of the United States or of Mexico is the
old and romantic preserved in such integrity and brought into such
sharp contrast to the modern. There are many handsome public buildings,
churches, club-houses, elegant shops, and on the American side a great
area of well-paved streets solidly built up in business blocks. The
Square of the original city, included between the river and canal,
Rampart and Esplanade streets, which was once surrounded by a wall, is
as closely built, but the streets are narrow, the houses generally are
smaller, and although it swarms with people, and contains the cathedral,
the old Spanish buildings, Jackson Square, the French Market, the French
Opera-house, and other theatres, the Mint, the Custom-house, the old
Ursuline convent (now the residence of the archbishop), old banks, and
scores of houses of historic celebrity, it is a city of the past, and
specially interesting in its picturesque decay. Beyond this, eastward
and northward extend interminable streets of small houses, with now and
then a flowery court or a pretty rose garden, occupied mainly by people
of French and Spanish descent. The African pervades all parts of the
town, except the new residence portion of the American quarter. This,
which occupies the vast area in the bend of the river west of the
business blocks as far as Carrollton, is in character a great village
rather than a city. Not all its broad avenues and handsome streets
are paved (and those that are not are in some seasons impassable), its
houses are nearly all of wood, most of them detached, with plots of
ground and gardens, and as the quarter is very well shaded, the effect
is bright and agreeable. In it are many stately residences, occupying a
square or half a square, and embowered in foliage and flowers. Care
has been given lately to turf-culture, and one sees here thick-set
and handsome lawns. The broad Esplanade Street, with its elegant
old-fashioned houses, and double rows of shade trees, which has
long been the rural pride of the French quarter, has now rivals in
respectability and style on the American side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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