Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada — John Shaqi
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on CanadaWarner, Charles Dudley
History
Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada
Warner, Charles Dudley
Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The population is mixed—Americans, French, Italians, now and then a
Spaniard and even a Mexican, occasionally a basket-making Attakapas,
and the all-pervading person of color. The darky is a born fisherman, in
places where fishing requires no exertion, and one may see him any
hour seated on the banks of the Teche, especially the boy and the
sun-bonneted woman, placidly holding their poles over the muddy stream,
and can study, if he like, the black face in expectation of a bite.
There too are the washer-women, with their tubs and a plank thrust
into the water, and a handkerchief of bright colors for a turban. These
people somehow never fail to be picturesque, whatever attitude they
take, and they are not at all self-conscious. The groups on Sunday give
an interest to church-going—a lean white horse, with a man, his wife,
and boy strung along its backbone, an aged darky and his wife seated in
a cart, in stiff Sunday clothes and flaming colors, the wheels of the
cart making all angles with the ground, and wabbling and creaking
along, the whole party as proud of its appearance as Julius Caesar in a
triumph.
I drove on Sunday morning early from New Iberia to church at St.
Martinsville. It was a lovely April morning. The way lay over fertile
prairies, past fine cane plantations, with some irrigation, and for a
distance along the pretty Teche, shaded by great live-oaks, and here and
there a fine magnolia-tree; a country with few houses, and those mostly
shanties, but a sunny, smiling land, loved of the birds. We passed on
our left the Spanish Lake, a shallow, irregular body of water. My
driver was an ex-Confederate soldier, whose tramp with a musket through
Virginia had not greatly enlightened him as to what it was all about.
As to the Acadians, however, he had a decided opinion, and it was a poor
one. They are no good. “You ask them a question, and they shrug their
shoulders like a tarrapin—don’t know no more’n a dead alligator; only
language they ever have is ‘no’ and ‘what?’.rdquo;
If St. Martinsville, once the scat of fashion, retains anything of its
past elegance, its life has departed from it. It has stopped growing
anything but old, and yet it has not much of interest that is antique;
it is a village of small white frame houses, with three or four big
gaunt brick structures, two stories and a half high, with galleries,
and here and there a Creole cottage, the stairs running up inside the
galleries, over which roses climb in profusion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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