I was deeply disappointed. My night with the petrels on the top was
out of the question. Yet as I backed over the rim of that peak, and
began to pick my way down, it was not disappointment, but fear that I
felt. It had been bad enough coming up; but this going down!--with the
cold, wet shadow of night encircling you and lying dark on the cold,
sullen sea below--this was altogether worse.
The rocks were already wet, and the footing was treacherous. As we
worked slowly along, the birds in the gathering gloom seemed to fear
us less, flying close about our heads, their harsh cries and winging
tumult adding not a little to the peril of the descent. And then the
looking down! and then the impossibility at places of even looking
down--when one could only hang on with one’s hands and feel around in
the empty air with one’s feet for something to stand on!
I got a third of the way down, perhaps, and then stopped. The men did
not laugh at me. They simply looped a rope about me, under my arms,
and lowered me over the narrow shelves into the midst of a large murre
colony, from which point I got on alone. Then they tied the rope about
Dallas, my eleven-year-old son, who was with me on the expedition, and
lowered him.
He came bumping serenely down, smoothing all the little murres and
feeling of all the warm eggs on the way, as if they might have been so
many little kittens, and as if he might have been at home on the
kitchen floor, instead of dangling down the face of a cliff two
hundred or more feet above the sea.
Some forty feet from the waves was a weathered niche, or shelf, eight
or ten feet wide. Here we stopped for the night. The wind was from the
other side of the rock; the overhanging ledge protected us somewhat
from above, though the mist swept about the steep walls to us, and the
drizzle dripped from overhead. But as I pulled my blanket about me and
lay down beside the other men the thought of what the night must be on
the summit made the hard, damp rock under me seem the softest and
warmest of beds.
But what a place was this to sleep in!--this narrow ledge with a
rookery of wild sea-birds just above it, with the den of a wild
sea-beast just below it, with the storm-swept sky shut down upon it,
and the sea, the crawling, sinister sea, coiling and uncoiling its
laving folds about it, as with endless undulations it slipped over the
sunken ledges and swam round and round the rock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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