Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British SomalilandRayne, Henry A.
History
Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British Somaliland
Rayne, Henry A.
British Somaliland
We are running near an island now and the water is shallow, so the
line is stowed away. Bump, bump, bump, we are aground. The men
spring overboard and push her over a hundred yards of shallows and
spring in as we reach the deep water. Syyed is making ready more
bait when crash goes the bamboo yard and the sail collapses. It is
lowered and freed as quickly as possible. Meanwhile I keep a stern
eye on the cook, who informs me nothing in the world will induce
him to return in this boat on the morrow. A splint of sticks,
evidently kept for such an emergency, makes a temporary repair of
the broken bamboo, and a smaller sail is bent instead of the large
one we have been using. No more fishing now; we anxiously watch the
bamboo as the breeze stiffens, and we fairly fly through the water.
At four-fifteen p.m. we are close to the Chinamen's island, just two
and a quarter hours since leaving Zeila. It is a low sandy island,
so narrow that I could almost throw a stone across it. From it,
when the tide is out, it is possible to walk along a narrow winding
riband of sand to the mainland.
As we come alongside the beach a dhow passes us a few yards away.
It is from Jibouti, and a white man in the stern stands up to doff
his cap. Syyed informs me he is a Greek fishing for a Frenchman who
is camped on the island. Sure enough there is his camp, and a tall
figure rises from a chair to give me a salute. Two Chinamen are
waiting on the beach and ask me to drink tea, but, much as I dislike
hurting their feelings, I cannot face the interior of their hovel,
a construction of grass mats and driftwood. My own table is set up
outside, and I drink their excellent tea and enjoy some very good
cake. After that I talk for some little time before walking to the
Frenchman's camp to pay my respects and satisfy my curiosity. They
have a nice clean little encampment, in which I enjoy the drink
so hospitably offered. The Frenchman informs me that he employs
natives to net fish, and pays them by the pound for what they bring
to him. He provides the nets, of which he shows me a wonderful
collection, ranging from drag nets imported from Marseilles to the
African circular throwing net. A sporting little affair this latter.
They cut up the fish--nearly all sharks--into strips, which they
cover with salt for twenty-four hours, then wash in the sea and
hang in the sun to dry. The shark skins, fins, and tails are saved.
The venture is as yet unproved, and the Frenchman informed me he
hoped to find a market for the bulk of his dried shark's flesh at
Zanzibar. I am doubtful if he will. Their catch to-day, they tell
me, consisted of one hundred and thirty sharks. My face must have
betrayed my inward doubt of this statement for I was conducted to a
heap of tails and fins fresh enough to convince me of its truth.
It is getting dark and we sit down and chat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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