Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British SomalilandRayne, Henry A.
History
Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British Somaliland
Rayne, Henry A.
British Somaliland
"It is peaceful, Monsieur," said the tall Frenchman. "It is
difficult to believe there is so much unrest in the world when one
sits here at eventide."
I look round. Two natives are wading through the shallow water
towards our island, and as they come they stop occasionally to
throw the circular nets they carry. They are making a good haul.
Syyed is talking to the Chinamen, a hundred yards away; my servant
and orderly are erecting my camp bed. A few fishermen are kneeling
round camp fires cooking their evening meal. I can see all over the
tiny island. Along the coast a red light, and then a white, becomes
visible as the darkness closes quickly round us.
That is Jibouti. Perhaps there is a liner lying in the harbour,
homeward bound, full of passengers going to Europe. There will
be ladies and little children, and now it is nearly dinner-time.
How far away and unreal it all seems. There is scarcely a sound.
My companion is very silent. I am aroused from my reverie by the
splash, splash, splosh, splosh in the water of small fish trying to
escape from some monster who seeks his evening meal.
"You have not answered my question, Monsieur," says the tall
Frenchman. "It is peaceful here?"
"Pardon," I reply, "I did not realise it was a question, but even
here there is war."
"How? Where?"
"In the waters!"
"True, and never ending war!"
"Were you fighting in France, Monsieur?"
"Yes!"
"Well, doubtless you find it peaceful here."
Again a very long silence, then, "Monsieur, my companion has just
returned from Jibouti. Have you heard any news?"
"No! my European news is seventeen days old. What is it?"
Later I sit down to dinner, and, as I must be up betimes, I call the
Chinamen to ask some questions concerning their work.
"You are collecting bêche-de-mer and shark fins?"
"We were, but our master has gone to China, and there are only two
of us left; until he returns we have ceased work."
"So I cannot see you at work in the morning."
"No! we are not working now."
I am bitterly disappointed as I have come purposely to see them
catching and preparing the bêche-de-mer for market, but I turn in
determined to find out all I possibly can, under the circumstances,
on the morrow.
Next morning I woke up to find Syyed and an Arab standing near my
bed with lines out. With prawns for bait they were having splendid
sport. The waters were swarming with fish.
Dressing hurriedly I saw the first of the Frenchman's boats coming
in with a load of fish, and I ran along to meet it. Over seventy
sharks was the haul, but the biggest one was not more than three
feet long. There were very few other fish, and they were mostly
gurram. There was some talk between my men and the fishermen.
"This," said the water police sergeant, picking up a shark eighteen
inches long, "is a Sheiba (old man), he will not grow another inch!"
"Certainly not, he is dead," I remark.
"I mean he is full grown," replied the sergeant.
The fishermen said that was a fact.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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