Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British SomalilandRayne, Henry A.
History
Sun, Sand and Somals: Leaves from the note-book of a District Commissioner in British Somaliland
Rayne, Henry A.
British Somaliland
From now on we pass through rougher, wilder country, but there is
more vegetation. Now the easily graded track drops precipitously
into a dark ravine, up which we turn and climb. There are steep
rocky walls on our right and left. The floor of the ravine rises
higher and higher; the walls come lower and lower, until we stand
on the summit of a narrow ridge. Bearing to the left we follow
the ridge for five minutes and come into camp. It is half-past
six o'clock, and as the sun goes down the evening turns chilly.
I sit wrapped up in a trench coat and order a fire. Mahomed, the
interpreter, comes to say that as the lions are _very_ bad, it will
not be safe to leave camp before daybreak; to which, remembering how
many lions came last night, I reply, "Bow-wow." The true reason, and
one with which I am entirely in sympathy, is that, after the hot
plains, they find the early morning air up here bitterly cold.
And why can't they tell me that is the reason? Because they like
to pose as hardy fellows. Because, perhaps, they fear I might like
to pose as a hardy fellow, too, and turn them all out to shiver
whilst I walk round in my warm clothes. So it is arranged to the
satisfaction of all parties that we march at daylight.
* * * * *
"Two easy hours' riding from here there's a camp; and in that camp
are four Sahibs, Wallah."
This to me at nine o'clock last night from Mahomed, the interpreter.
Somals have no idea of distance or time, and my experience has been
that statements from them concerning the movements or whereabouts of
other people are invariably unreliable. A simple statement like the
foregoing could not be accepted without careful examination. Yet,
should there really be four Sahibs ahead, they are undoubtedly the
officers I am travelling to meet at Hargeisa, and I should go to
their camp.
"You say there are four Sahibs?"
"Yes; people have arrived from their camp who saw them to-day."
"And are they on the Hargeisa road?"
"Yes."
At six a.m. this morning after a cup of hot tea we rode for two
solid, steady hours till we came to the Hargeisa plateau. Turning
sharp right we rode away from the Hargeisa track. I was suspicious,
but said nothing until we met a Bedouin Somal. To my question he
replied that he had come from a police camp about three hours' away;
that with trotting camels we should arrive there in two hours, but
the road was rough.
And had he seen anything of four Sahibs? No! He saw one, an officer
with a troop of M.I., who went away yesterday morning.
And is this the Hargeisa road? No, it is not; we have left it, but
there is another road from the police camp.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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