Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Surrey (England) -- Description and travel
Richmond, of old known as West Sheen, was once a royal residence, and
its Green shows a fragment of the palace in which Elizabeth and other
sovereigns died. Most of Richmond's antiquity has disappeared, down to
the renowned Cobweb Cellar, swept away two or three years ago, beneath a
rebuilt tavern; but much of the place still wears a dignified look of
Georgian old fashion, borne out by the narrow, bent main thoroughfare
that on a Saturday night will be more crowded than the Strand. The newer
streets above are quiet and genteel enough; but all the quarter between
the station and the front of busy boat-houses lays itself out for
strangers brought by four railway lines from London; and the streets
here are thickly set with houses of entertainment of every rank,
including confectioners to provide the "maids of honour" cheese-cakes
that are at Richmond what whitebait is or was at Greenwich. These two
places long made rival goals of London junketings up and down the river;
but automobiles now ply farther afield, carrying their best customers
past the Richmond hotels, so that the renowned "Star and Garter" had to
close its doors, to be reconstructed as a hospital for disabled
soldiers.
The great sight here, of course, is Richmond Hill, to which a gradual
ascent leads from the bridge, or from the bank above the boat-houses a
steeper one up the slope laid out as a beautiful public garden, its
highest part a shady terrace, commanding that rich landscape over which
gazed Jeanie Deans, in her heart perhaps preferring the view from
Arthur's Seat. "A huge sea of verdure, with crossing and intersecting
promontories of massive and tufted groves, was tenanted by numberless
flocks and herds, which seemed to wander unrestrained and unbounded
through the rich pastures. The Thames, here turreted with villas and
there garlanded with forests, moved on slowly and placidly, like the
mighty monarch of the scene, to whom all its other beauties were but
accessories." Flocks and herds, indeed, are not so visible in our day;
but the hundred barks and skiffs seen by Scott, may appear multiplied by
tenfold on the reach of the river extending at our feet.
Passing on before the transformed "Star and Garter," and through the
gate of the Park, from this corner of it one has the same outlook--
... Here let us sweep
The boundless landscape: now the raptured eye
Exulting swift to huge Augusta send,
Now to the Sister Hills that skirt her plain,
To lofty Harrow now, and now to where
Majestic Windsor lifts his princely brow....
Heavens! what a goodly prospect spreads around,
Of hills and dales, and woods and lawns and spires,
And glittering towns, and gilded streams, till all
The stretching landscape into smoke decays.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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