Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Surrey (England) -- Description and travel
The highway from Godalming to Haslemere comes by Lea Park, avoiding
Witley; but from its station, on the opposite side of the railway line,
one has another road, five miles of up-and-down windings, with lovely
views; and it would be only some couple of miles out of the way to go by
Chiddingfold and along the edge of the Fold country. But, indeed, every
approach to Haslemere, road or path, is charming, and would be more so,
if not so often shut in by new red mansions and cottages "with a double
coach-house." This Surrey border town, which was made a rather rotten
borough in Elizabeth's reign, fell away from such dignity, but in our
time revived as centre of so choice a district, and has a busy station
on the L. & S.W. Portsmouth line. The station lies beyond the roomy
village or townlet, to which Hindhead pilgrims might well turn back for
a glimpse of its broad street, forming a right angle at the modest
Market Hall, junction point of byroads with the highway between
Godalming and Midhurst. Its good old houses have been much overlaid by
châlets and bungalows, for even in the valley here we are some hundreds
of feet above the sea, and Haslemere has its own clientèle of
health-seekers. The Church stands rather out of the way, across the
railway line, but is worth a digression. In the nave, opposite the
porch, a coloured window, the subject taken from Burne-Jones's "Holy
Grail," makes a memorial to Tennyson. In the new part of the churchyard,
near the gate, will be seen a curious mass of gorse and heather, which
is Tyndall's tomb, taking this form, it is understood, by his own
desire, and rather painfully suggesting the remains of that "Screen"
with which he disfigured the slopes of Hindhead in the unphilosophic
design of fencing himself in against a neighbour.
[Illustration: WITLEY CHURCH.]
On the farther side of the town, above the main street, will be found a
remarkable Museum and Library presented to Haslemere by the late Mr.
Jonathan Hutchinson, long its special patron: this institution should
not be overlooked by those who have any interest in geology, as it
excellently displays the natural history of the neighbourhood. The
Recreation Ground on the same height offers a fine view across the
valley to Hindhead, and northwards over the Fold country. Here we are on
the steeper slope of Blackdown, which is rather higher than Hindhead,
and still more wild, not as yet so much invaded by the builder. Past the
Museum goes one of several ways up its sides, where an hour's walk
brings us finely over the border of Surrey; then beyond we gain the
Blackdown plateau, one of the highest points of Sussex, from which
Tennyson's summer home looks to the South Downs, across the view "long
loved by me."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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