Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Surrey: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Surrey (England) -- Description and travel
In this neighbourhood, as in the Isle of Wight, amusing tales are told
of the poet's love of seclusion and the manner in which he repelled
unwelcome visitors. But the reader, no doubt above listening to local
gossip, may be waiting to know his way up to Hindhead from Haslemere.
The carriage road from the station is plain, passing under the railway,
skirting the village of Shottermill on the left, then turning up a deep
hollow to reach the top at the "Huts." At the new church on Crichmere
Green, a little way beyond the railway arch, the foot traveller should
take a deep lane that looks as if it had strayed out of Devonshire, and
this will bring him on the heath, over which a track bears left for the
Huts, or he must keep up rather to the right for the Gibbet Hill. The
finest footway to the Gibbet Hill, about three miles, is by the road
mounting behind Haslemere Church, at the top of the ascent reaching a
common, from which the bare ridge of Hindhead appears full in view, to
be gained by a rough road over two intervening hollows, with pine-clad
knolls high to the right, a scene that suggests Bonnie Scotland rather
than Happy England.
From the top, the view over Hindhead itself has been criticised as
somewhat featureless, but for points like the isolated row of sand hills
to the north-west, known as the Devil's Jumps, from such a legend as has
so often arisen about any uncommon shape of scenery. The Devil's Punch
Bowl, _alias_ Haccombe Bottom, is indeed a most imposing basin, that
shelters a larger population of squatters than might be guessed on a
glance at its dark, wide hollow opening down to Thursley and the valley
of the Wey. Beyond it, the villa settlement of Hindhead, with Grayshott
as its nucleus, is marked by a new Water Tower, which has supplied a
felt want, these houses having at first stood dependent on wells that
sometimes failed them. Not that there is any want of water in clay
bottoms below the sand. All around are found tarns and pools, still
perhaps known as Hammer Ponds, beside huge furrows driven through the
earth by old searchers for iron. The marshy ground below Thursley drains
into several ponds like Pudmore, that figures in Mr. Baring-Gould's
story, as does the rock "Thor's Stone," haunted by a mythology older
than legends of that devil who took such athletic jumps. High up on the
heath, to the south of Grayshott, and about a mile to the right of the
Portsmouth road, are the Waggoners' Wells, a chain of lakelets among
dark woods, pronounced by George Eliot an ideal scene for a murder,
admired also by Tennyson, who is said to have written here his "Flower
in the Crannied Wall." On a lower level, to the north-west, beyond the
Devil's Jumps, close to the Wey and the Surrey border, lie the sparkling
sheets of Frensham Great and Little Ponds, either of them able to style
itself a lake. A large pond above Shottermill, beside the high-road from
Haslemere, is used for fish culture. It was by a short tenancy at
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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