Sweet Hampstead and Its AssociationsWhite, Caroline A.
History
Sweet Hampstead and Its Associations
White, Caroline A.
Hampstead (London, England) -- History
Leaving Steele’s cottage, we pass England’s Lane on the left—a lane
famous for its blackberry hedges and the pleasant fields in the
neighbourhood of the late Mr. Bell the publisher’s house; but all has
changed, and the once rural lane is now a path between brick walls and
garden fences. Farther on is Park Road, leading to the newly-made Fleet
Road and Gospel Oak Station; and on the other side of the way, a little
further on, Upper Park Road, with fragrant nursery-grounds spreading over
the same distance on the right, reminiscent of the times when it was all
‘flowers and gardens’ on that side of the way to Hampstead. The road is
still attractive with its handsome houses, standing behind well-grown
trees in well-kept gardens; but formerly, on the ascent of Haverstock
Hill, the outside passenger by the old stage-coach on looking back found
himself repaid on a clear day by a brief prospect of the great city, with
‘the dome of St. Paul’s in the air,’ and all the surrounding spires,
towers, and cupolas that ascend above the city roofs.
We leave Haverstock Terrace (now Belsize Grove), leading to Belsize
Gardens, on the left, and a little above it, to the right, the sloping
grass-fields—as yet unbuilt on, but marked for speculation—and a pleasant
view, between the poplars shading the top of Haverstock Hill, of green
Highgate, and the smooth mound of Traitors’ Hill west, with Camden Town
crowding up to the new Cattle Market, and tiers of houses covering what
were once Copenhagen Fields, an engraving of which, dated 1782, lies
before me, and shows these fields with only one habitation in them,
Copenhagen House, a tea-drinking place, the popularity of which extended
for a considerable time into the present century.
The entrance to the garden is through the ribs of a whale set up
archwise, with an inscription across the top. Two individuals are
playing at bowls, whilst two others look on. In the foreground are three
gentlemen in cocked hats, long-skirted coats, and their hair _en queue_,
one of whom placidly smokes a churchwarden; while at a little distance,
watching them, are two sinister-looking men, with thick bludgeons in
their hands, and the ugly head of a horse-pistol ominously protruding
from the pocket of one of them, suggestive of a state of society to which
again I shall presently refer.
Meanwhile, Belsize Avenue dips down on the left, and a little further on
the opposite side of the road Rosslyn House, once the home of the clever
but unscrupulous Lord Loughborough, Earl of Rosslyn, who began life as
‘plain Mr. Wedderburne, a Scotch lawyer,’ and lived to be Lord Chancellor
of England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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