But it looks as if we had at last succeeded in making the East hustle a
little. All Beirut seems to be crowding into the campus. It is almost a
part of his religion for an Oriental never to do anything on time; yet
the grand stands are already full, and the soldiers stationed at the
gate-house can hardly hold the crowds back long enough for the porter
to collect their tickets. The scene is dazzling, dizzying, bewildering,
like Coney Island and the Derby and the Yale-Princeton game all jumbled
together.
There must be at least five thousand strangers on the college grounds,
and every color of the spectrum is here, especially the very brilliant
ones. The military band, with their blue uniforms and red fezes, seem
almost shabby and dull in comparison with the more garish coloring all
around them. The seats are mostly filled with women, whose showy dresses
are hideous individually and beautiful as part of the general color
scheme. Moslem harems are here with their weird veils, and there are many
pretty Levantines in rich, inappropriate silks and satins. In Syria,
however, the ladies do not monopolize the bright garments. Handsome
young Turkish officers swagger along under yards of gold lace, merchants
from the city are wearing their best and baggiest satin trousers and
embroidered waistcoats and broad silk sashes, while the sons of Egyptian
millionaires sport the elegantly fitting coats and tinted vests which
now form the favorite costume of the streets of Cairo. The color spreads
over the field and up the grand stands, with bright splashes along the
sides of the dormitories. Long strips of red and white bunting flaunt
the college colors; American and British and Greek and Turkish flags
wave above, and the students’ windows are decorated with their national
emblems or class banners.
Early in the afternoon an American tutor, while ushering the women of
a Moslem harem across the campus, suggested, in rather labored Arabic,
that they pass around the back of one of the dormitories so as to avoid
the crowd. Imagine his surprise and consternation when one of the ladies
replied, “No, thank you; I’d rather go around in front”—and said it in
perfect English, with just a suspicion of a Yankee twang! Who was hidden
behind that black veil? What foolish, tragic venture had brought it about
that an American girl should dwell behind the latticed windows of a
Moslem seraglio?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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