In spite of the naïve and often impossible localization of particular
incidents of the story of Job, it is quite possible that the very old
tradition is correct, and the mysterious Land of Uz across which roamed
the herds and flocks of “the greatest of all the Children of the East”
was this same free, fertile tableland along which we are now traveling.
Before the Hauran was so largely given over to agriculture, it must
have been an ideal grazing country; it has always been subject to
forays by robber tribes from the desert;[19] and the “great wind from
the wilderness” which smote the dwelling of Job’s eldest son[20] would
perhaps nowhere else blow with such fury as on this high, open plateau.
There was just such a great wind from the wilderness the last time I went
to Damascus. The Hauran bears a deserved reputation for coolness and
healthfulness; but that day, as happens two or three times each summer,
there was a sirocco. The wind was indeed blowing—blowing a furious gale
of perhaps thirty-five miles an hour; but it came straight from the
eastern desert and scorched as if it had been a blast from an opened
furnace door. I did not have a thermometer with me; but, from sirocco
experiences elsewhere, I should judge that the temperature in the train
was not under a hundred and five degrees. The drinking-water that we had
brought for the journey became warm and nauseating; but we put it to good
use in soaking the back of our necks, where it evaporated so quickly in
the dry, burning wind that it stung like ice for a few seconds, and then
was gone. Strange as it may seem, the only other way to mitigate the heat
was to shut the car windows and _keep the breeze out_.
There were fortunately some interesting incidents to enliven the long,
hot ride over the monotonous plain. We did not see any of the renowned
“strong bulls of Bashan,”[21] or any other cattle grazing on the plain,
but we watched slow caravans bearing wheat to the coast, as they have
been doing for millenniums past. They could never carry all the grain
that this productive district might harvest, and the railways should
prove a rich boon to the Hauran. We pondered curiously as to why the
stations were never by any chance just at the towns and why the track
should swing far to the right and left in great curves, as if it were
ascending a difficult grade, when the only engineering problem involved
in its construction could have been solved by laying a ruler on the
map and drawing a straight line down the center of the level plain.
A fellow-traveler explained to us that the course of the railway had
not been determined by the usual considerations, such as economy of
construction and the desirability of passing through the most densely
populated districts, but by the amount of _bakhsheesh_ which wealthy
landowners would pay the government in order to have the line pass
through their estates.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account