If we think of Damascus as the port of the desert, then its wharves lie
along the Meidan. This narrow handle of the spoon-shaped city, which
stretches far southward on both sides of the _Derb el-Haj_ or “Pilgrim
Road” to Mecca, is a comparatively modern quarter; but it is most akin
to the wilderness, and its one long avenue is thronged with Children
of the East who have journeyed far to visit what they firmly believe to
be the world’s largest and most beautiful city. Long caravans, weary,
dusty and heavily laden, are led into the Meidan by wild-looking, shaggy
Bedouins. A little flock of sheep on its way to the slaughter-house is
driven by no gentle shepherd, but a black-bearded giant armed with rifle
and dagger and club. Groaning camels kneel in the street while immense
sacks of wheat are untied from their backs and rolled into the vaults of
the grain-merchants. We see here the choicest mares of Arabia ridden by
tall, stalwart Hauran Druses whose cruel, handsome faces, wrapped around
with flowing headgears of spotless white, look down upon the hurrying
crowds with a haughty contempt. Yonder group of strangely dressed fellows
with red and white cloths bound about their brows are Chaldeans from
Baghdad. The shops here seem very poor and shabby in comparison with the
bazaars of the older quarters; but the simple country folk, and even the
proud Bedouin Arabs, stand spellbound before the astounding wealth and
bewildering tumult of the great city.
The south end of the Meidan is known as the Gate of Allah—though it
has no gate; for it is here, amid impressive ceremonies, that there
starts the annual Pilgrimage to Mecca.[36] Back to the same _Bab Allah_
straggle, four months later, a sick and exhausted remnant who have
survived the journey to the holy city, to bear henceforth the envied
title of _haj_ or “pilgrim.” Then cholera or plague breaks out with
renewed virulence.
Of the ancient fortifications of Damascus, only a short, ruinous piece
now remains. The city is surrounded, between the houses and the orchards,
by an almost unbroken succession of cemeteries. In the burying ground of
the Orthodox Greeks is the small, unimpressive tomb of St. George, who is
said to have assisted the Apostle Paul in his escape over the wall. This
cannot, of course, be the same St. George who killed the dragon, as the
hero of that famous exploit was not born until nearly three hundred years
after the time of Paul.
In the large Moslem cemeteries at the southeast of the city are the tombs
of Mohammed’s muezzin, two of his nine wives, and his favorite child,
Fatima. Not far from the sepulcher of the Prophet’s daughter, though
outside of the cemetery, is buried an unfortunate Jew who aspired to
the hand of Fatima. The presumptuous lover is said to have been stoned
to death, and his grave is now entirely hidden under a great heap of
the rocks which passing Moslems still cast upon it as a sign of their
contempt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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