Just outside of Damascus, also, is a sad house of “life more terrible
than death.” It was once, they say, the residence of proud Naaman, and it
is still tenanted by lepers who, alas, have known no Elisha and washed
in no healing Jordan. My Syrian friends were afraid even to enter its
court, but I talked with eight of the thirty or forty inmates. Some were
voiceless and shapeless—grotesque, horrible caricatures of humanity.
But there was still a “little maid” in the House of Naaman. Miriam was
a pretty, slender girl, just beginning to burst into the bloom of early
Eastern adolescence. She seemed the very incarnation of health and
youthful joy, and could hardly stop laughing long enough for me to take
her photograph. Yet I could not laugh with her; for on the rich brown of
her cheek was a tiny pinkish swelling, and close beside her graceful form
crouched an awful figure, loathsome, unsmiling and unwomanly, like which
she would some day be.
Over the now closed Kisan Gate at the southeast corner of the city wall
is a small, bricked-up window, through which tradition says that St.
Paul was let down in a basket. Unfortunately for the story, this part
of the fortification dates from the Turkish occupation. The bend of
the wall includes, however, as it probably has always done, the Jewish
Quarter. The Hebrews of Damascus are unique among their coreligionists
of Palestine and Syria in that they are not comparatively recent
immigrants drawn back to the land of their fathers by Zionist ideals, but
are descended from ancestors who settled here in very ancient times.[37]
Some of them bear family names which can be read in the earliest census
lists of the Old Testament. Many of them are very estimable people; but I
cannot describe the quarter where they live, further than to state that
it is the most filthy and malodorous place I have yet visited. I am not
especially squeamish; I have often, for the sake of the human interest
found there, traveled in Mediterranean steerages and lived in the slums
of great capitals; but after a brief glimpse of the Jewish Quarter of
Damascus, I beat an ignominious retreat. There are said to be houses
there whose interiors are wonderfully beautiful; but I am not going back
to see them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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