Probably the wood is so enduring because it grows so slowly. When you are
told that a slender shoot, hardly shoulder-high, is ten or twelve years
old, you begin to speculate as to the probable age of the patriarchs of
the grove. On a broken branch only thirty inches in diameter I once, with
the aid of a magnifying glass, counted 577 rings—577 years. And some of
the cedars are forty feet and over in girth! Certainly these must be a
thousand years old, probably two thousand. We are tempted to believe that
one or two of the most venerable were saplings when the axemen of Hiram
came cutting cedar logs for the Temple at Jerusalem. The most rugged and
weather-beaten of them all, called the Guardian—surely this hoary giant
of the forest has lived through all the ages since Solomon, and from his
lofty throne on Lebanon has calmly looked down over Syria and the Great
Sea while Jew and Assyrian, Persian and Egyptian, Greek and Roman, Arab
and Crusader and Turk, have labored and fought and sinned and died for
the possession of this goodly land!
The trees rise on half a dozen little knolls quite near to the edge
of the plateau; and within a few minutes’ climb are a number of tall,
steeple-like rocks which, through the erosion of the softer stone, have
become almost entirely cut off from the main mass of the mountain.
One such group, known to American residents of Syria as the “Cathedral
Rocks,” is reached by following a knife-edge ridge far out over the
valley. There is barely room for a narrow foot-path along the top, and a
misstep would mean a fall of many hundred feet; but at its western end
the ridge broadens out into a group of slender, tower-like cliffs. When
you stand on the farthest of these there is a feeling of spaciousness
and isolation as if you were indeed upon the loftiest pinnacle of some
gigantic cathedral, though no man-built spire towers to such a dizzy
height.
A half-hour of hard and, in places, dangerous climbing down from the
cedars brings one to where the Kadisha River bursts from a cave in the
rock. Like many another cavern in Lebanon, this is of great depth and has
never been thoroughly explored. We contented ourselves with penetrating
it a few hundred feet; for it was impossible to avoid slipping into the
stream now and then, and the water, fresh from the snow-pockets on the
summits above, was only twelve degrees above the freezing-point. The
entrance is barely ten feet in diameter, but the cave soon divides into
several branches, one of which is beautifully adorned with translucent
stalactites and, about seventy yards from the mouth, leads up to a large
rock-chamber. The river flows out from the mountain with great rapidity
and, just below the source, leaps over a precipice in a white waterfall
forty feet high, so delicate and lacelike in its beauty that it is known
as the “Bridal Veil.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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