Where the Bikaʿ is highest and widest and most fertile, on a foothill of
Anti-Lebanon which projects far enough to give a commanding outlook in
all directions, stands Baalbek, the City of the Sun-God. Far northward
Hollow Syria leads to the open wheat-lands of Homs and Hama; at the south
it sinks gently to the foot of Hermon. Back of the city are the peaks
of the Eastern Mountains, and across the level valley rise the highest
summits of Lebanon. It is no wonder that the approaching traveler finds
it difficult at first to realize the magnitude of the ruins. Any work
of man would be dwarfed by the magnificent heights which look down upon
Baalbek. But what an inspiration these same mountains must have been to
the unknown architect who conceived the daring grandeur of the Temple of
the Sun!
When I viewed the ruins from the summit of the highest mountain of
Lebanon, their columns did not seem especially large. Then I remembered
that there are few structures whose details can be distinguished at all
from a point twenty miles away. After descending many thousand feet
through rocky ravines and dry water-courses, we came out on the Bikaʿ and
again saw the temples. They now appeared of moderate size and very near.
It was hard to believe that a few minutes’ canter would not bring us to
them and, as we rode across the monotonous level of the valley, it seemed
as if each new mile would surely be the last. When I had traveled for an
hour straight toward their slender columns and found them apparently as
far away as ever, I began to understand that these temples must be of a
bigness beyond anything that I had ever seen before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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