Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
The gate, like so many others in Morocco, takes a turn half-way,
this form being the easiest in case of defence being necessary. From
the outside, as well as from the interior, a dead wall meets the
eye when looking in or out as the case may be. Within we entered
a large square, surrounded on two sides by buildings, while the
two others were faced with the outside wall, along which a covered
arcade had been built where animals and goods, as well as human
beings, could find shelter from rain—whenever that rare event
happens—or sun. From this square streets lead between the houses
to the different parts of the _ksar_. Many of the dwellings are
extremely well and solidly built, one and all of _tabia_, but with
arched windows of wood, and doors of the same material,—not the
rough planks we had seen at Dads, but showing considerable signs of
skilful carpentry. We found provisions obtainable, even eggs, a fowl,
and some bread, and in every respect Ul Turug resembles more a little
town than a desert _ksar_. We took up our position under the high
wall of a house, and, tying our donkeys to a couple of tent-pegs,
lit a small fire of wood we had collected outside and supped.
Quite a number of people were passing the night at Ul Turug. Not
only were groups of Berbers to be seen hurrying to and fro, but
Arab soldiers from the Sultan’s camp, many of them with their
horses, and Jews and negroes, all either coming from or going
to Tafilet, a sudden impetus having been given to trade by the
presence of the Sultan and the vast multitude that follows him
in his marches. Camels and mules laden with grain from Marakesh
there were too, all horribly lean and sore-backed after the long
march over the Atlas and the desert. In the crowd our little band
escaped observation altogether, and very few took any notice of us:
one or two Berbers, more friendly than the rest, shared our little
blaze of sticks, bringing us in return thin strips of flabby native
bread, which when toasted became quite crisp and good.
A few words must be said as to the powerful Berber tribe of Aït
Atta, a stronghold of which Ul Turug is. Probably no division of the
Shloh people south of the Atlas is so well known as this tribe, and
deservedly so, for by their bravery and warfare, by their constant
extension of territory, and the fear in which their name is held,
they have become a byword for all that is fierce or strong.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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