Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
In the house of this man my days were spent, just as I lived another
three weeks with him on my return journey, and I received from
him then, just as I have always done, every mark of kindness and
hospitality. Even the interior of his house was open to me, and
many a pleasant hour I passed playing with his little daughters,
whose dresses of silks and brocades sparkled with jewels.
By this time I had found opportunity to take stock of my travelling
companions, who, as they played a by no means unimportant part in
the success of my journey, deserve some notice.
The chief of our party, by position, age, and, he himself would
probably add, acquirements, was the elderly Shereef. In person
he was dark, of a sort of coffee-colour, with a grey beard and
moustache; a short figure inclined to stoutness, and a bad habit of
trying to sing. Himself a native of the Sahara, it was on him that
I principally relied for success in my undertaking, my personality
and disguise being concealed under the bushel of his reputation and
accomplishments. Principal amongst the latter was his knowledge of
medicine, a hereditary knowledge it must be understood, part of the
_baraka_, or blessing, of his august family, for he was a descendant
of the Prophet Mohammed. I unfortunately had no opportunity of
seeing the result of his skill, for when in his company I was never
in one place sufficiently long to obtain any information as to the
potency of the draughts he administered out of one of the three empty
soda-water-bottles he had with him. It was entirely my own fault,
though, that I did not see him perform the operation he was most
skilled in—namely, cataract—for before leaving Tangier I had
received a letter from him asking me to bring a large bottle of
chloroform and a knife suitable for the purpose. This I steadily
refused to do, and I think that the old man felt the slight I
had unintentionally offered him, and fancied that I doubted his
skill. At least he was always holding forth upon the subject, and
continually repeating the story that when in Algeria he had been
offered a fabulous salary—the sum varied each time the tale was
told—to remain in charge of the military hospital at Algiers, an
honour which he had declined. He never tired of narrating the facts
and details of his most successful operation. There is a sect in
Morocco called “Hamacha,” who are followers of a certain saint
by name Sidi Ali ben Hamduch, who lies buried near Meknas. These
devotees amuse their audience—and themselves too, let us hope—by
throwing into the air heavy cannon-balls, which they allow to fall
upon their shaven crowns. On the occasion in question a Hamdushi
had unfortunately evidently been wanting in religious power, for the
cannon-ball crushed his skull. My old Shereef friend had been called
to the rescue, and according to his account, which, let us hope, for
the sake of science as well as his own reputation, is a true one,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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