Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
On the Sultan’s leaving Fez in April of the year in which I made
my journey, 1893, he took with him as far as Sufru, a small town
some few hours’ journey south of the capital, all his European
staff—that is to say, the military missions of France and Spain,
some three officers of each, attached to his Court. But from Sufru,
for reasons which are not quite apparent, he ordered the Europeans to
return to Fez, with the exception of the French officer, Dr Linares,
who was commanded to accompany him throughout his journey. Kaid
Maclean returned with the rest; but shortly before my leaving Saffi,
he, without my knowledge, had proceeded to Tafilet to join the
Sultan’s camp, as usual accompanied by his guard of troops. Yet
in spite of the fact that he was in his Majesty’s service, wore
the Sultan’s uniform, and was accompanied by troops and bore a
special firman from his master, he was several times roughly treated,
and was more than once in danger of his life upon the road. He
had arrived some ten or twelve days previous to myself at Tafilet,
and I look back to the fact that he was there to urge my cause with
the Sultan and the Viziers with no little feeling of thankfulness
and pleasure. To Dr Linares, too, I owe a word of thanks. Had not he
been present to perform an operation on my throat, in all probability
this book would never have been written, nor I have returned to tell
the tale of my journey. Fortune, which has never deserted me in any
of my long journeys, stood by me then, to ease my suffering and, I
think I may almost say, save my life. But I have progressed too far.
At length Mohammed returned with the welcome news of Kaid Maclean’s
presence, and a couple of soldiers to bring me into the camp, where
some shelter would be afforded to me until the Sultan’s opinions
and wishes as to myself should be known. Meanwhile I was told to
“lie low,” and that no communication must pass between myself and
either of the European officers, or even the native officials. In
a few hours’ time, when Mulai el Hassen should leave the privacy
of his tents for his office, my fate would be known.
So I followed my guides into the great camp.
It was a sight well worth seeing—worth almost the long journey to
Tafilet; for, though not the first time I had intruded my presence in
the camp of the Sultan of Morocco, I had never previously witnessed
a following of so large a number of troops and others, or so vast
a quantity of tents.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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