Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
Threading our way through the camp, we at length arrived at
a spot near which I recognised the European encampment of Kaid
Maclean. There, with a few words of welcome from my guides, I was
shown into a small and much-dilapidated bell-tent, of the fashion
in use in the Moorish army for the soldiers, of whom it was already
half full, and a place was made for me by its occupants—a rough
set of men, it is true, but none the less ready to make me as
comfortable as the circumstances would allow. In that little tent
I spent five days, of which I shall have more to say, and I learned
that the Moorish soldier, be he never so ill paid and ill clothed,
be he dirty and rough in his language, can when he likes show a
solicitude and kindness far greater than one would ever expect
from such; and my five days of illness and watchful care from the
handful of men who shared my little quarters—or rather, I shared
theirs—was an experience gained in the strange character of the
Arab people. Scanty as were their rations, the best of everything
was specially cooked for me, notwithstanding the fact that I
could not even swallow water for the greater part of the time;
and these great rough fellows, brought up and trained to every
crime and brutality, became like nurses in a sick-room. With voices
lowered lest they should wake me when they thought me asleep, with
no noise in setting their tiny tea-tray or stirring the little fire
of charcoal, they spent their time in trying to amuse me and stir
up my wretched spirits. I met two of them this last summer in Fez,
whither I had proceeded to meet the young Sultan on his way thither,
a month after his accession, and we spent a riotous night of revelry,
laughing over the hardships we had shared in the camp of the late
Sultan at Tafilet, and amusing ourselves in a way than which we
ought to have known better; for so pleased was I to be able to repay
in a small degree their kindness to me, that we must have kept the
neighbourhood of my residence awake all night with music and singing.
Soon after my arrival I received a message from Kaid Maclean saying
he could not see me until the Sultan’s wishes were known; but
that if I wanted anything I could send to him surreptitiously,
for he had received strict orders to have nothing to do with me
at present. Meanwhile I made a written request to Sid Gharnit
that a small tent might be found for me and my men to lodge in,
and that was all I asked. Toward evening I received a reply. The
Sultan had been informed of my coming, and was very indignant,
absolutely refusing to give me a tent or anything else, and I was
to remain where I was until further orders.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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