Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
A word of praise must be said for the organisation of, and order
maintained amongst, so large a number of men as are collected in
these vast camps. It must be remembered that every tribe and every
district is represented by a certain number of members, conscribed
by the Sultan previous to his setting out. These are often at open
warfare with the surrounding tribes, members of all of which are also
in the camp. Yet in spite of the fact that the men who have been
at war with one another for generations perhaps become neighbours
in the camp, few or no broils occur, and the general behaviour,
to the onlooker, is excellent. At night the stillness and quiet
were remarkable, considering the class of men, and the camp seemed
almost deserted, few moving about, though no doubt this is owing as
much to the fact that any man not carrying a lantern is liable to be
shot by a sentry as to anything else—for the price of a lantern is
beyond the reach of the ordinary soldier. From gun-fire at sunset to
that at sunrise one can rest in absolute quiet, except for the band
that plays at nine o’clock outside the Sultan’s tent, first on
the native _ghaita_ and then on European instruments—very badly
it must be acknowledged on the latter.
By day it is more lively: soldiers hurry hither and thither, bright
specks of colour in their gay, though often ragged, clothing;
horses and mules, kicking up the suffocating dust, gallop to and
fro; bugles sound; guns fire; and there is all the stir and bustle
of townlife. I never tired of sitting in front of Kaid Maclean’s
tent, under its awning, and watching the scene around me. As far as
the eye could reach in any direction extended the tents, some the
great circular _kubbas_ with their gilt globes and patterns in blue,
some two-poled _utok_, and many resembling the ordinary regulation
tent of our own army. From my vantage-ground I could watch the Sultan
himself, a white figure seated under the tent of red and green cloth,
and even recognise the Viziers as they stood before the open tent
listening to his commands. I could see him, too, as he left and
entered the private enclosure, and it was an interesting sight to
watch how the whole life of the camp depended upon that one figure;
how, when the time arrived for him to appear, the bodyguard ranged
themselves into long line and bowed their heads as he passed them,
crying, “_Allah ibarek amar Sidna!_”—“God grant blessings
and his ‘fulness’ to our Lord!” It was easy to perceive how
one and all, from the greatest of the Viziers to the least of the
soldiery, lived in terror of, and with it almost adoration for,
their Sultan. For of all autocrats there is none who holds power
as does the Sultan of Morocco. Life and death, imprisonment and
confiscation, as well as advancement and wealth, are all in his
hands. A nod of his head, and a man rises from poverty to riches;
another nod, and he dies secretly in prison. Yet in spite of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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