Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara — John Shaqi
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
The next individual in our caravan was of a very different kind and
class,—a long, tall, delicate, thin man of some four-and-twenty
years of age, with one of the most beautiful voices in speaking I
ever heard. He was himself a Shereef, a nephew of the old doctor’s;
and a man of absolute fearlessness in danger, and equal gentleness
and sweetness of manner in time of peace. He never complained of
cold or hunger, though we suffered much from both, but bore all the
hardships of the journey, and they were many indeed, not only with
every fortitude, but also without ever losing an opportunity to
attempt to add to my comfort. As we trudged along the weary desert
roads he would for hours together, with a voice that would be the
fortune of a Member of Parliament, and gestures that an actor might
spend years and never acquire, relate to me strange stories of the
past, page after page of Moorish history and tradition, in Arabic
as pure and as poetical as any that can exist.
The very opposite was the old Shereef’s son, a boy of some twelve
or thirteen years of age. Heavy in body and mind, he had neither
the intellect to be amusing nor the inclination to be useful, and
served no other purpose of advantage than to be the object of the
black girl’s practical jokes instead of any other of us.
There was, too, in our party the returning pilgrim, a devotee of the
sect of Mulai Ali el Derkaui, as was apparent from his green turban
and the string of large wooden beads he wore suspended round his
neck. A strange quiet man he was, always ready to help us load our
animals or pitch our one little tent, but seldom speaking; never
missing the hour of prayer, and often himself bearing part of the
load of his little donkey, on which he was carrying to his native
village a few bars of rough iron to be forged into ploughshares. We
saw but little of him: he was always a hundred yards ahead or behind,
counting his beads as he came along; and often when we missed him
altogether we could see away back along the road his figure, or its
shadow, for his colour and that of his clothes corresponded too
truly with the yellow sand, as he rose and fell in prayer. I was
much struck by his quiet, patient, uncomplaining way. He didn’t
belong to us, but travelling in the same direction, he joined
our little caravan, and we made the journey together. I of all
our party had some conversation with him, for kind as were they
all to the solitary stranger, he was timid and retired. However,
we often talked together as I trudged beside him, and he seemed
to be a man of no little power of reasoning and thought. Often in
discussing theological questions, and he would talk of nothing else,
it became apparent that a battle was raging in his heart, a battle
of common-sense against prejudice and fanaticism. He had travelled
to Mecca and back, and his eyes had been opened, and he seemed to
realise the narrow-mindedness of the school in which he had been
brought up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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