Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
The residential part of the town is divided into several districts,
separated from each other by open spaces, or by streets of
shops. Just as in Europe, there are the fashionable and unfashionable
quarters, the “Medina” or city being perhaps the most sought
after. So largely does fashion hold sway over the people, that the
rents of houses of equal size only a few hundred yards away from
one another vary often fifty per cent, a palace in the district
of “Bab Dukala” not bringing anything like so large a sum as a
minute house in the “Medina.” It was in the latter that I resided
during my stay, in the house of Sid Abu Bekr el Ghanjaui, who owns
very considerable property all over the city, and particularly in
this neighbourhood. The houses here are high, and, like most Moorish
residences, have but few windows looking towards the street, one and
all possessing central courts on to which the rooms open. But even
in respect of windows Morocco City is different to Fez, for whereas
[Illustration: _A Street in Marakesh._]
in the latter from the streets one sees but few, and those generally
closely barred, in Marakesh they are in considerably larger numbers,
though, as I stated above, by no means general.
After the “Medina”—the trading quarter—the “Kasba” is
the most important. This district, the residence of the Government,
and which contains the palace, is separated from the remainder of
the town by walls, much resembling those that encircle the city,
but higher and in better repair. Nor do the houses reach to this
wall, for between the city proper and the “Kasba” are large
open spaces and many gardens, adding a most picturesque effect to
this quarter. These gardens for the most part are walled, and as
a rule only the tree-tops, amongst them the handsome cypress and
date-palm, are visible, while the minarets beyond cap the scene.
One enters the “Kasba” through the handsome stone gate of
which I have already made mention, and of which tradition says the
stones were brought from Spain, and after passing a smaller and
less important gateway, one emerges opposite the large “Jumma el
Makhzen,” or Government mosque, with its handsome minaret of stone
and tiles, and its huge modern courtyard, opening on to the street by
large gates. With the exception of the tower, now fast falling into
decay, it presents no particular features of architectural beauty,
though its courts and green tiles and turreted walls are by no
means despicable. A long straight road with one-storeyed houses on
both sides, for the most part quarters of soldiers and _employés_
in the Government service, leads on to another series of walls,
those of the Sultan’s palace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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