Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
is beautiful in the way of architecture and decoration, though the
constant love of the Sultans for pulling down and rebuilding has no
doubt destroyed much of the older work, which in all probability
was the best. It must by no means, however, be denied that even
the modern architecture of the Moors, as exemplified in the finer
houses of Fez, is excellent. It is the custom of writers on Morocco
to detract in every way from the present state of the country and
its inhabitants, especially as regards architecture; but this is
no doubt owing to the fact that they have no opportunity during
their stay in the towns of entering the houses of the official
and richer classes, for the Moors are very shy of strangers, and
it requires a long acquaintance with the language and the people
before they will admit one, as a rule, into the interior of their
abodes, and then generally not unless the native costume is adopted,
for fear of falling into bad repute if “Christians” are seen to
enter. I have myself not only had many opportunities of seeing the
finest houses of Fez, but have resided in them for several periods
of no little time, and can vouch that some of the dwellings of
the richer men are little short of the Alhambra in beauty. The one
great drawback to their modern architecture is the entire absence
of marble pillars, in place of which much heavier work is erected,
usually richly decorated in tiles. Beautiful as they often are, the
airiness and lightness so apparent in the Alhambra, for instance,
is entirely wanting. The mosaics of finely cut tiles to-day being
worked in Fez surpass in design and skilful application any I have
seen in Spain. However, I have wandered rather far from Morocco
City, for there but little if any great beauty is to be seen,
the inhabitants being, as a rule, much poorer than those of the
northern capital, while the materials used in the construction of
their houses are not nearly so good or so lasting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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