Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
in camp, and who used this power to obtain everything procurable
that he set his heart on, caring little whether the rest of us fell
by the wayside from fatigue so long as he could ride, or died of
starvation so long as he could obtain his fill of food. I have no
pity even now when I think of the salutary hiding he got when he
returned to Marakesh, for a worse villain never, I believe, existed.
We split up our little party and left Morocco City by different
gates, so that in case any information had reached the ears of the
native officials there would be less chance of their being able
to arrest our progress; but nothing occurred, and an hour after
bidding adieu to my host, Sid Abu Bekr, our united caravan of men,
three mules, and a couple of donkeys, had entered the palm-groves
and was threading its way toward the open plain.
Before us lay the Atlas, blue and white in the sunshine, and
seeming to bar all farther progress in that direction, of so
equal an altitude are the snow-peaks. The scene was a charming
one—the constant peep of the glistening snow seen through groves
of palms. But the forest, which to the west and north of Marakesh
extends to a great distance, does not to the east protrude far
into the plain; and in an hour or so we had left the last palm-tree
behind and entered the open level country, which stretched away to
where the unbroken line of mountains rises from the plain.
At a small _nzala_, the merest collection of thatch huts with the
usual _zareba_ of thorn hedge, we spent the night, crowding into
the little tent, before which our animals were hobbled; and soon
our tin kettle was boiling, while the black slave-girl unpacked
the tiny glass tumblers that take the place of tea-cups, and the
old Shereef made a brew of the favourite beverage of Morocco,
green tea with piles of sugar and mint.
Every one was in the best of humours. At length all delays were over,
and we were started upon our adventurous journey, in the success of
which all, with the exception of the negro, felt a common interest;
and as we squatted round the tent we talked and laughed together,
as cheery a little band of men as could be found anywhere.
Before dawn on November 2 a start was made. Impatient as I was to
reach country where I should be safe from the interference of the
Moorish Government, it was decided that our pace must be very slow,
for a long and weary road lay before our pack-animals, and their
strength must be husbanded for the climb over the mountains. So it
was that we pushed on quietly, seldom travelling over three miles
an hour at this part of the road, although the soil was good and
the country level.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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