Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
The change in the costume of the natives made it clear that we
had left the people of the plains and entered into the country of
mountaineers, for the length of their garments was much curtailed
about the legs, and instead of the draggling and mud-stained skirts
of the Arab there appeared the sinewy limbs of the children of
the mountains. But peculiar to the Atlas we noticed here for the
first time in general use the _khanif_ or _haidus_, the strange
black-hooded cloak with its eye-shaped pattern in yellow or red
in the centre of the back, the object of which no tradition seems
to make mention, and no history to hint at. All that we know for
certain of this strange garment is, that while it is not found
throughout Algeria, it crops up again in the mountains near
Tripoli. Putting aside all speculation as to the origin of the
design, it must be added that the material of which these cloaks
are made is an excellent one, the closely woven black goat-hair
being impenetrable to cold and rain, and therefore excellently
suited to the mountaineers of the bleak heights of the Atlas range.
A few words must be said as to the general difference of costume
between the Berbers and the Arabs. While the former wear the _jelab_,
a hooded garment closed down the front, it is never found amongst the
[Illustration: _Berbers._]
Berbers, whose one desire as to clothing seems to be absolute freedom
of limb. The _haik_, or toga-like garment of the Arabs, is used
amongst the better-class Berbers, but merely as a luxury. Their
typical costume consists of the _chamira_, or long loose shirt
reaching from the neck to below the knees, and the _haidus_ above,
the open hooded cloak called by the Arabs _s’lham_. This in the
case of the mountaineers takes the form of the black goat’s-hair
article, and in that of the Berbers of the plains of a thick but
finely woven garment of white wool. The one distinguishing mark
in the costume of the two races, however, is the following: while
the Arab loves to gird his waist with a sash or leather belt, the
Berbers have the greatest objection to anything of the sort, and
seldom, if ever, wear either. Some exception to these customs can
always be found in the case of Berbers who have left their native
lands to work in the Moorish cities, and here they can often be
found in dress absolutely resembling in every detail that of the
poorer class of townspeople; but this is owing far more to necessity
than option, for the local Berber materials cannot be found, except
rarely, in the Moorish towns.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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