Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
None can have known better than the Sultan the difficulties—even
dangers—of the journey before him; for, although he possessed
no personal knowledge of the country to be traversed, he was well
informed as to the climatic changes that would have to be endured,
as to difficulty in finding food for his troops, and still greater
difficulty for his horses and mules, and as to the physical aspect
of the country, which presented, along the proposed routes, not only
the heat and cold of the desert, but the passage of mountain-passes,
one alone of which reaches an altitude of over 8000 feet above the
sea-level,—and this amongst subjects who, by birth a different
and a semi-conquered nation, would provide nothing or little for
his welfare, and whose reception, if hearty enough in words, would
lack any real enthusiasm.
There can be no doubt that influence was used to prevent Mulai
el Hassen starting out upon this journey, the expenses of which,
even to a European Government, would be enormous, while the dangers
were scarcely less; but so persistent was his Majesty in carrying
out his idea, that he showed little favour to those who tendered
him advice, and let it be clearly understood that the matter rested
with him alone.
In April a start was made from Fez, the direction being due south,
and a halt of a few days was called at Sufru, a small town some
sixteen miles away from the capital. Here the European officers
attached to the Sultan’s suite were informed that it had been
decided that they were not to accompany his Majesty, and they
forthwith returned to Fez. The sole exception made was in the case
of the French doctor, M. Linares, who was commanded to remain with
the army, and to make the journey with the Sultan.
After weary months of hard travel and equally hard delays, Mulai
el Hassen reached his goal, Tafilet, the home of his ancestors,
in the first week of November.
There is no need here to recount the march from Fez to that oasis;
suffice it to say that, in spite of the physical difficulties of the
country, the scarcity of provisions and fodder, and the half-hearted
reception of the Berber tribes, it was successfully accomplished.
It may be thought that I have already digressed too far from the
purpose of my book in making these introductory remarks; but as it
was owing to the Sultan’s presence in Tafilet that I was able to
undertake my journey at all, and happily bring it to a successful
end, I have felt constrained to briefly state the reasons that
had taken Mulai el Hassen to the far-away oasis in the desert from
which his dynasty originally sprung.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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