Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
With the exception of these caves I found but little signs of
antiquities, the ruins I had been told of before leaving Marakesh
turning out to be merely the remains of “_tabia_” _ksor_, the
age of which it was impossible to determine. Once allowed to fall
out of repair, it takes a very short time for these buildings,
constructed with such a soft material, to crumble away, though
when properly attended to, and the rain kept off, they seem to
last for a great time. One curious ruin exists near Dads, which
I was enabled to visit, but I refrain from giving any attempt at
a minute description here, as I was unable to take satisfactory
measurements. Suffice it to say that it stands on a circular hill of
bare rock, and is built of large blocks of stone, without mortar. I
attach considerable importance to this ruin, and hope to be able
to return on some future occasion and more minutely explore it. The
hill is known as Jibel Korah, and is well known to every native of
Dads. The ruin has a bad reputation, and is said to be inhabited by
devils. A similar building exists near Todghrá, on a rocky slope
to the south-west of that oasis.
As the roads ahead of us were reported to be infested with robbers,
especially deserters from the Sultan’s army which was now at
Tafilet, we thought it best to leave behind at the _zauia_ my two
mules, and proceeded on our way with only a couple of donkeys, one
belonging to the Shereef’s nephew, the other mine. Our party, too,
diminished in numbers. The old Shereef had reached his destination,
and was to go no farther; his son was a useless creature, and I
decided not to take him; while our pilgrim, the devotee of the sect
of the Derkauiya, turned aside to seek his home. A good fellow he
had been, and heartily sorry I was to lose his company, though he
seldom said much or intruded his presence upon us. Yet he was by
far and away the most interesting of our little band, and exhibited
the strange case of the fanatical devotee, all whose ideas had been
overthrown by his pilgrimage to Mecca. His loathing for Christians
had received a blow in the kindness of the captain of the steamer
he had travelled on, and, in spite of his religious detestation of
the “Nazarene,” he confessed to a secret partiality for their
character. Before leaving the Sahara, in fact, he had formed his
judgment of the whole world on his surroundings and the traditions
of his people; but now his eyes were opened, and he was sorely
bewildered. Had I dared, I would like to have made a more careful
study of this man’s mind and opinions, but it must be remembered
that I was passing as a Moslem, and therefore had to be guarded in
my conversation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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