Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
Our party from Dads to Tafilet consisted of five—the Shereef’s
nephew, to whom no words of praise could do justice; my Riffi
servant, Mohammed; the miserable cur of a negro whose conduct
caused us so much anxiety, but who paid for it on our return to
Marakesh; a Dads tribesman, who went as our _zitat_, or guarantee
against robbery and murder; and myself, still in my torn _chamira_
and _jelab_, barefooted, browned by the cold and sun, and as hard
as nails: and a merry little band we were, as—our two donkeys
packed with our scanty baggage, only a few pounds in weight—we
shook hands with all the friends who had been so kind to us at Dads,
and, receiving their blessing, set out. The last to leave us was
Hammu, my friendly caravan-man, and he accompanied us some way up
the valley, until, reaching a district with which his _ksar_ had a
blood-feud, he bade us “adieu” and turned back. For a quarter
of an hour or so we could hear his voice rising and falling in the
strange cadence of the Berber songs until it died away in silence.
CHAPTER VIII.
DADS TO UL TURUG.
Although we left the Zauia Aït bu Haddu on November 12, we spent
that night in the province of Dads, our road having merely taken
us some twelve miles up the river’s course, as far as a _ksar_
in the district of Aït Iunir, which I had promised to visit _en
route_, as it was from near this point that the main road to Tafilet
leaves the valley to cross the plain of Anbed. The path, for it
is no more, winds about amongst the gardens and _ksor_, every few
minutes crossing one of the small canals that irrigate the fields,
&c. These, where not too deep, are forded, but in many places are
crossed with little bridges—merely the trunks of trees laid across
from bank to bank, and covered with stones and soil. Only two places
of any note are passed on the way, the tomb and sacred groves of Sid
bu Yahia, and close to it the _sôk_, or market, of the Khamis, or
Thursday. The tomb of the saint is built of _tabia_, and consists
of two rooms, in one of which the remains of Sid bu Yahia lie,
while the other serves as a mosque. A pointed dome of green tiles
covers the former. Near by is the grove of trees, so common an
adjunct to sanctuaries in Morocco. They are silver poplars, and
of great size. The market-place is only an open space, and the day
not being Thursday, it was deserted. There is a second large _sôk_
at Dads—the Arbaa, or Wednesday—a little to the south of Zauia
Aït bu Haddu: we had passed through it when nearing Dads on the
day of our arrival.
Close to the Sôk el Khamis are the remains of seven villages of
Aït Atta, which were destroyed when that tribe made an unsuccessful
attempt to wrest the valuable strategical position along the river
from its present holders. Up to that date the Attauis had possessed
these seven villages; here they were allowed to live in peace,
but on the breaking out of open hostilities their _ksor_ were razed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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